Travel Jordan and don’t miss the Citadel atop Amman’s highest hill.
A camel stood alongside the highway while, between the road and small fields, circles of people sat eating beneath dusky, olive trees. A row of bright flags flapped above an overpass and a blue sign in Arabic unmistakably advertised IKEA. These were my first minutes in the Middle East. I soon learned that when you travel Jordan you dance constantly between ancient traditions and new world buzz. travel Jordan
Bridge crossing while approaching Amman
Soon we crossed through an intersection as a clutch of sheep poured over a roadside meridian. That scene repeated itself dozens of times in the ten days while I traveled through Jordan. The Amman road led through low valleys, the Wadi, and up into hills, Jabal, then through neighborhoods that bore their names.
One of the Street signs in Amman
A historical glimpse of Amman
The city is laid out over seven hills, then it expanded to 27, and today across the metropolis, layers of civilizations peel back in surprising glimpses. Jabal Amman, the tallest hill, was settled in Neolithic times and never fortified as the lower hills were. Waves of invasions left their marks. Roman Greco ruins still dot the country, many wait for excavation still.
Ottomans swept in to establish a route to Mecca. Centuries later the British sought influence in the region. Their legacy remains in the writings and admiration of T.E. Lawrence and his novel, Lawrence of Arabia. Finally, while other Middle Eastern countries shift allegiances, and through all the upheavals, the Bedouin tribes preserved their independence.
Amman becomes the capital
In the 19th century, Amman was named the capital of Transjordan and the city soon swelled in wealth and position. With two million visitors in 2014, Amman made it to lists of the 100 most visited cities in the world and it became the 5th most visited Arab city.
Safe and protected when you travel Jordan
I never felt uncomfortable while traveling Jordan. We passed through security fortifications and metal-detectors at western-style hotels, and then quickly passed through military checkpoints on the highways. Jordan is determined to remain stable and safe. After recent shootings and the rattling, political circus in the US, traveling Jordan was peaceful and calm.
It took me more than fifteen hours to get to Jordan from San Diego. Make sure you don’t miss a thing on your trip. Overcome Jet Lag from long flights with these suggestions from my earlier post. I won’t travel without the strategies.
The Sugar Cane Juice shop in downtown Amman
Shop styles in downtown Amman
Our guide, Ramzi, led us to downtown and into the Souk, the streets of shops. It was a busy, Friday night with families and foreign visitors sharing the sidewalks. Lit dramatically, dotted with clusters of people, the Roman Amphitheater rolled back from the street. A man lifted a box of flatbreads, laying out tempting stacks on a folding table. Teenagers jumped to loud music. Women, wrapped in full dark cloth from head-to-toe, raised cellphones to take pictures. Our group dressed casually and walked through it all.
Friday night in the Roman Amphitheater plaza in downtown Amman
A faint call flowed out of an alley and then rose more loudly into my consciousness. It was the call to prayer – another first. We passed trays of spices, stacks of sweets, a Shwarma tower sliced with a sword, a sugar cane juice press, and offers of tea. I wanted to stop by the dress shops and get something beautiful that I’d never wear, but we kept moving until the crowds thinned on the second hill.
Inside Sufra, the Amman garden restaurant
Shops lined the street and small cafes. We entered a softly lit dining room inside a walled garden. This was Sufra and our table was soon stacked with small plates, bowls, and platters. Lemonade thick with ground mint leaves, sweet sage tea, and baskets of warm bread found their place. In an open alcove adjacent to the dining room, a man stood over a round, ceramic oven. He pummeled dough and used a flat pillow to knock it onto the sides. I’ve no doubt he made hundreds during his shift.
Inside the palace of Jordan’s Amman Citadel
Jordanian bagpipers lead students in Amman
Amman students pose at the Citadel
Getting to the Citadel early was a great strategy. At the top of Amman’s highest hill are two giant pillars, they’re all that remains of the Roman Temple of Hercules and the area was nearly vacant as we wandered. Emperor Marcus Aurelius (AD 161-80) erected the columns and temples.
I heard a surprising drone – bagpipes! (They were most likely developed in the Jordanian region, although the British claim responsibility for their appearance here.) The bagpipers led a group of young students on their way to the steps of the Umayyad Palace Plaza. Teachers soon wrangled them into position for class pictures.
Two of the oldest human statues, 7250 BC, inside the Jordan Museum.
I was drawn to two rough figures inside the museum. They are the Ain Ghazal Statues, dated back to 7250 B.C. and considered some of the oldest statues ever found. The small museum is well worth a visit with overstuffed cases, skulls, goblets, and statues.
After wandering the grounds, marveling at the old palace, courtyards and views we left the metropolis of Amman for the wilds of the Dana Biosphere Reserve and a candle-lit eco-lodge set in a hilly divide of Wadi Feynan. More about that adventure to come!
Less than four hours south of Phoenix there’s a dreamy beach getaway that’s mysteriously off most tourists radar. Puerto Penasco, perched on the northern shore of the Sea of Cortez, is an hour south of the US border but a world away from everyday concerns.
Looking into El Elegante crater inside the PInacate Biosphere.
The drive south takes you through the wild reaches of the Sonoran desert. Twisting Saguaro cactus salute alongside the road. Beyond them, haggle-tooth red peaks dot the horizon. As you approach the city, signs for the UNESCO protected Pinacate Biosphere dot the highway. Striated black, red, and at times green, miles of Biosphere land lean towards craters. Volcanic cones slope up in the distance.
Then roadside attractions emerge and you spy tall, scattered rectangles – the area’s high-rise luxury, beach resorts. Suddenly you’re in town. There are so many ways to enjoy the region – hikes in the reserve, renting ATV’s, golf, kayaking, tequila tours, nightlife, and a rainbow of dining options but the best beach getaway revolves around the bright blue and lapping sea.
Penasco del Sol Beach Resort Hotel
I stayed at the Penasco Del Sol, a family-friendly, modestly priced, beach getaway. It’s set on the central beach of Rocky Point, a short drive from the fishing harbor and village. During the fall weekdays, the art-filled lobby and central pool area are relaxed and hushed. On the weekends, couples and families meet and stroll through on their way to soak in the tubs, enjoy the waterfall bar and walk the beach.
Tub time inside the Penasco del Sol beach resort
On weekday mornings I could walk the beach with only my shadow for company, but on the weekend crowds fan out from a stepped plaza. A half-dozen tents selling swim-suits to water-wings, food carts set up, and strolling musicians saunter through the beach crowds.
Inside the beach resort lobby, there’s a curved bar open most of the day and the dining room serves breakfast buffets and menu items, with traditional specials on Sundays. Dinners full of seafood and local specialties are featured on the evening menu. In the mornings the coffee is strong and I always filled my plate with papaya, melons, and chilaquiles. There were eggs, sausages, local and Norte Americano options too.
My room was large enough for me to do some yoga before heading downstairs for breakfast and the day’s activities. In the next building over, condos and timeshare owners had their own pool and beach activities.
La Palomas Beach Getaway
On my last night, we enjoyed a steak dinner in the La Palomas Beach Resort and the band, Agua de Coco serenaded us with Jazz classics.
A room with a view at the La Palomas Beach Resort
La Palomas Beach Resort
The Grand Mayan – Luxury beach getaway
About 45 minutes from town is the exclusive Grand Mayan, a Vidanta Resort. The members-only space is laid out with precision along a broad length of the coastline. A Jack Nicklaus Golf Course lies inland from the resort towers. A tempting, lengthy lazy river snakes through the property. Here members own condos and timeshare apartments which allow them to visit the pools and spas, restaurants and services. The spaces inside and out are palatial with expansion slated over the coming years.
One lobby inside the Grand Mayan property
The top tier rooms come with their own soaking pool as well as a jacuzzi steps from the bed.
The Dream Weaver Hotel
On the afternoon we went into town for lunch we strolled the Malecon and wandered the village. The town is packed with color and tourist shops. Just up a block from the busiest areas are coffee roasters, small galleries and I spotted the Dream Weaver Hotel.
This quirky place was created by host Diane and each room is unique. The courtyard and upstairs patios are full of local art, murals, reed furniture and there’s a view down to the beach below. These are budget accommodations for those interested in basic comfort, cooking options, and the authentic jostling of village life a few blocks away.
Dreamweaver lower courtyard
I can’t believe it took me so long to visit this part of Mexico! It’s a little over five hours from my home in San Diego and about 3.5 from Phoenix. There is an airport but for the time being only charter flights are allowed.
I’ll be writing more soon about the food and adventures we enjoyed. Mexico is forever in my heart and I look forward to sharing this beach getaway with my family and friends.
This journey was made possible by the Rocky Point/Puerto Penasco Tourism Board. Thank you for hosting me. As always, all opinions are my own. Salut!
The road to Pala Reservation curves through an ancient, river valley as it winds east from the freeway. After leaving California State Highway 15 behind, the land opens to sweeping hills. Lazily cruising along offers time to decompress from everyday concerns. Driving down from Los Angeles or up from San Diego to the casino makes it easy to leave the urban buzz behind. I soon discovered that my nearest casino was a great escape and such a fun one at that.
The Pala Casino Resort rises above the pool
The AAA Four Diamond Pala Casino Resort rises midst hills that were still green in mid-summer hues. I entered the complex and drove just beyond the casino, to the hotel entrance and then swung my car up to valet parking next to a vast, cascading fountain. Door attendants guided me into the lobby and pointed towards the reception desk. Not a slot machine could be seen but a wall of windows opened onto the grand lawn, swimming pool, and spa surrounded by green. This is a casino resort I can relate to, I thought.
Take a virtual tour of my nearest casino on my YouTube channel:
So many casinos leave me feeling like I’m navigating a noisy maze – you can find your way in but it’s not easy to get anywhere else. At most casinos, my head feels pummeled with incessant beeping and bells. It’s exciting to a point but at Pala, the gambling fun is more measured. “No Smoking” neon signs glowed on columns throughout my nearest casino. The expansive gaming spaces are laid out logically and the casino parking is simple to get to. I didn’t have to hike the length of a football field to get to my room either.
Complementary Privilege cards make it easy to rack up points and track winnings.
Don’t get me wrong. I enjoy a night out with a one armed bandit but prefer not being pestered into it like an over-zealous date. My partner loves playing cards. I can’t maintain a Poker face so my inner Bond-girl gets a vicarious thrill just watching him play. Pala offered us lots of entertainment and when we worked up an appetite, there were nearly a dozen eating options to choose from.
The Cave, the lobby’s wide, central bar and restaurant, drew me in for an afternoon cocktail. Later we shared an entree there and enjoyed watching the couples and families surrounding us. The nearest casino restaurants ranged from a central food court with several sit down cafes and a sweeping patio; a spacious and popular buffet; a coffee counter with tempting pastries and ice cream; the cool underground Cave Wine Bar and finally a fine dining steakhouse, The Oak Grill.
Patio dining outside the Luis Reys inside the Pala Casino
The Oak Room is a world apart, quiet and refined. It makes a wonderful spot for a special occasion dinner. A friendly sommelier is happy to share suggestions for wine pairings. There are intimate tables and a private dining room as well.
I was lucky to be at the Pala Casino on concert night and the inner lawn was laid out with rows of chairs before a wide stage for UB40 and several other bands.The music started just before 8 pm as the night sky was beginning to darken. Several dedicated bars remained accessible during the night and we found plenty of space to dance.
Before we left in the morning, I had time for a dip in the pool and checked out the Spa.
The Casino is on the Pala Indian Reservation but inside there are few reminders. If you pay attention at the entrances, you’ll find huge framed displays with some of the Tribal history detailed in pictures and artifacts. I loved studying the pictures and wished there was more information about the people in the area. Next time I visit my nearest casino, I’ll leave time to learn more. The Pala Tribe Cupa Cultural Center and Mission San Antonio de Pala are nearby.
The Pala Casino and Resort is kicking off an expansive renovation which includes larger suites in a new 349 room tower, creating a multi-pool and entertainment complex along with expanded gaming and casino bar space. The renovations should be done in 2018. I look forward to returning to my now favorite and nearest casino for another sweet and fun escape.
Thank you to the Pala Casino and Resort for sponsoring my visit. As always all opinions are my own.
I love great architecture and towns in the American Midwest are full of beautiful craftsmanship and glorious buildings. Milwaukee was a business center in the 1900’s. Captains of commerce erected sturdy buildings and many remain within a few short blocks of downtown. New architecture is taking flight along the shores of Lake Michigan as well. Don’t miss Milwaukee.
Don’t miss Milwaukee and Plankinton’s great arcade
In 1915, John Plankinton, the founder and owner of a Meat Packing Company, built the Plankinton Arcade as an entertainment center with bowling and billiards. It was fashioned in a 15th-century Italian Gothic style that remains but today it houses shops and cafes.
The Loyalty building designed by Richardson Romanesque in a unique classical style now houses a hotel. Mader’s Restaurant has been serving German fare since 1902.
One window inside the German restaurant, Mader’s
James Beard award-winning, Three Brothers, serves authentic Serbian food inside a historic Schlitz tavern in the Bay View neighborhood. (Note the cream brick.)
A glimpse of the Public Market in Milwaukee
The Third Ward is overflowing with new cafes and bars. Grab a bite in its centerpiece, the Public Market.
Inside the Grain Hall
Inside the Grain Hall, there are massive stain glass windows and classical murals. The floor is inset with a huge, restored medallion.
This video will give you a moving glimpse. Don’t miss Milwaukee in your travels:
The Iron Block ranks among Milwaukee’s most important Civil War era building. It is the only remaining major example of cast-iron architecture in the city and is one of a few of its kind left in the Midwest.
Pristine cream brick inside Swig in the Third Quarter
Cream City bricks are made from a red clay containing large amounts of sulfur. It was commonly found in the Milwaukee area. When fired, the bricks become creamy-yellow in color. Unfortunately, they are also porous and soak up city grit. Today many cream brick buildings remain but unless scrubbed with chemicals regularly they remain dark.
The ceiling in the Pfister Building is one of the don’t miss Milwaukee wonders
The Pfister Hotel lobby is one of uplifting opulence and built for the public to enjoy. Today the hotel still retains its glory. There are panoramic views also in the penthouse Blu Bar.
The Milwaukee Art Museum wings and walkway
But the greatest discovery, to my mind, is the new Art Museum. Created by engineer – architect, Santiago Calatrava.Several times a day, when the Lake Michigan winds permit, the building’s giant wings open to allow light into the interior.
Inside the Milwaukee Art Museum
The immense space feels like it breathes. It certainly had me breathing faster as I walked through. The Milwaukee Art Museum has been noted around the world for its wings. Inside and out the building is a wonder to experience.
That’s a brief look at some of the windows, the unique walls and the wings that make visiting Milwaukee, Wisconsin’s downtown a great town to walk and ponder.
Dawn reveals things magically. We’d pulled into the Lajitas Golf and Spa Resort while the morning sky was still black. In minutes the world came to light, filling the dining rooms’ towering glass windows. That and the strong coffee cleared my head. I’d just started to discover why Lajitas is considered one of the best Texas resorts.
It was too early to check in but we dropped off our luggage and went off for a day of horseback riding and paddling the Rio Grande (more of that story here.) Dinner was accompanied by wedding festivities on the terrace. The bridal party was perfectly Texan – the groom’s men wore rhinestone studded jeans and the bride pivoted on embroidered cowboy boots!
What makes Lajitas one of the best Texas Resorts
The ranch sits center stage. As we wandered the acres, the history of the place opened up. Close to the Terlingua community with its eccentricities, Lajitas offers a quiet and graceful contrast.
There are shops and a spa of course, but I didn’t take the time to investigate. I wanted to be outside. The Lajitas resort is famous as a magnificent golf course rolling over hills and between mesas. There’s no wonder it’s award winning – voted the #1 most beautiful golf course in Texas by Golf Magazine, Best of Texas resorts for golf by Texas Outside and the Dallas Morning News considers it the # one public course you can play in Texas.
Once handicaps were mightily challenged – one hole lay across the Rio Grande in Mexico! Those days are gone now but the course still runs along the border and that meandering river. If it weren’t for a light rain, you’d be seeing pictures of me in a golf cart careening along the course trails. Along with trails galore, the resort sits close to a marked nature walk flush with local flora and fauna.
There’s a historic chapel filled with local artists’ work.
Nearby, a zip line sat ready, its lines looped up into the highlands. There are nine lines with three different courses for various levels and ages. We met the guides who were getting ready for fall guests. Their shop also manages shooting activities: Five stand sporting cays, a cowboy action shoot full of Wild West arms, a combat course, and packages combining them.
My favorite spot, the key to this being one of the best Texas resorts, is Black Jack’s crossing. Don’t let them tell you it’s just a golf shop – there’s much more inside. The owners manage one of the largest collections of Longhorn displays in the West. Rooms are full of the noble horns. Historic pictures, branding irons, log books, and a wide mural surround the golf shop amenities. I don’t play golf but would go out of my way to see this collection.
Another historic space that makes this one of the best Texas resorts is the Ocotillo event space. Once a fine dining restaurant featured in Gourmet magazine, now the two-story building hosts private events. It’s worth a stop to climb the tower and admire the views. There’s even a Texas state shaped pond!
Last but not least are the stables offering equestrian adventures including sunset and sunrise trail rides.
As we completed our visit, dining as the stars emerged, I felt closer to the heart of this land in Lajitas, definitely one of the finest Texas resorts.
If you explore Lajitas golf resort and spa, one of the best Texas resorts:
Make reservations for lodging, golf, spa and activities at the resort (http://www.lajitasgolfresort.com/)
Getting there: There’s a small airport nearby but most visitors arrive by car.
Spend some time on the River with Big Bend River Tours (http://www.bigbendrivertours.com/)
The Barton Warnock Visitors Center has lots of information about Big Bend National Park (http://tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/barton-warnock)
Escaped. I turned off the news and fled from work to relax with a few friends and indulge in delicious flavors. The beauty of the Tucson foothills did their best. Leaving the manic world behind, I dove into something extraordinary – a few days exploring a historic luxury resort, the Hacienda del Sol guest ranch.
The entry fountain at the Hacienda Del Sol luxury resort
A little history
In the 1930’s, Josias T. Joesler was hired to design a girls school on the sixty-acre ranch in the foothills outside of Tucson. He built in the authentic Spanish/Mexican adobe style using tile, stone, hand-hewn beams, thick walls set with deep windows. The non-denominational prep school for girls opened with a staff of six teachers with 28 students enrolled.
The girls came from some of the wealthiest American families and most brought their horses to explore the canyons and hills surrounding the Hacienda. The trail riding tradition continues in a more luxury resort style today.
A view of the main hall in the original school wing at the Hacienda del Sol
Tucson is modest about its treasures. Locals don’t boast about being the only UNESCO City of Gastronomy in the United States. They’ve always nurtured their harvests and gardens, and regularly use grains discovered here 4 thousand years ago. My first taste of ancient Mesquite flour was in the cookies waiting for me in my hotel room. They were moist and flakey with a satisfying, grainy texture.
The garden at Hacienda del Sol
In the heart of the resort is a net-draped garden where executive chef, Bruce Yim, nurtures plants and trees for the luxury resort Grill and Terraza Patio restaurants. He incorporates seasonal harvests and regionally sourced greens, beans, dairy, meats and even flowers into his menus. Other botanical garden plots and pots flourish across the resort acres.
The ever-mobile, Executive Chef, Bruce Yim in action
Coffee service in Hacienda del Sol
In January the weather is changeable. I woke to the sunshine, then misty rain, then sweeping clouds turned to rainbows at the base of the Santa Catalina Mountains. Coming from a drought-plagued region, the mists felt wonderful. My pores opened, each breath filled with fresh, rain-washed oxygen. It made my in-room massage all the more profound and I dozed, waking to quiet and then dinner.
The grounds are highlighted with local artist’s work.
On my first evening, I joined friends on a terrace above the golf course with views of the peaks. Craftsmen hand-chiseled each rock for the wall and there was a door-sized mural with a little girl facing a sunset vista. It was a workman’s tribute to his little sister. Personal touches transform so many things at the Hacienda del Sol.
The Director of Wine and Spirits, John Kulikowski, passionately introduced the table to local brews. I grew fond of the Tombstone Whisky and each wine pairing was a discovery. Why didn’t I know about the wineries of Sonoita and Elgin, not far from Tucson? Tastings at the distinctive wineries will be another highlight when I return to Tucson.
One of the Sunday Brunch tables at the Hacienda Del Sol Luxury Resort
At Sunday brunch the waitress generously poured champagne with a colorful splash of blood orange juice. She expertly knew the right proportions and kept them coming. Pastry chef, Cara Valadivia, made certain that tables overflowed with sweets and cakes. Her expertise and the caring staff keep locals returning to fill weekly brunch tables.
Hiking with a naturalist in the wilds near Hacienda del Sol
Saguaro cacti dot the landscape
From luxury resort to wild canyons
All was not indulgence. One morning we hiked along a trail into the river basin with Geoffrey Campbell, Hacienda Del Sol’s resident expert hiker, and Assistant General Manager. While sharing highlights of the history, geology, flora/fauna, he pointed out the secrets of the Saguaro sentinels and why barrel cactus tilt, and learned about the entire Tucson basin. With his help, we spied tracks and spotted a bobcat lair above the whitening remains of a coyote. There are trails across the resort for beginners and advanced hikers can venture into nearby Finger Rock Canyon. Saguaro National Park, with acres of the nation’s largest cacti, is close to Tucson as well.
One view from ridge rooms
The days sped by as I learned more about the area, falling in love with the subtle charms and casual luxury of the Hacienda del Sol.
Between the petite village beauty of Carmel-By-The-Sea and the boardwalk diversions of Monterey lies one of the most iconic drives in the world – California’s 17 Mile Highway. The world class golf resort of Pebble Beach is tucked into that drive. The course is usually reserved there is usually reserved for the members, the wealthy and deep-pocketed international tourists. During tournaments, those willing to watch and party with the world’s best golfers can visit for a pittance of the price to play (about $500, if you can get a reservation.) Otherwise, there’s a guard house entry but that needn’t keep you from visiting whether you play golf or not.
Golf course medallion commemorating the founding of the golf resort.
Nearly a hundred years old, the Pebble Beach Company has flourished through keen sensitivity and observation. Abundant water is a requirement for any golf course. In the 1970’s, a drought clenched water use throughout the state. Long before saving water became trendy the PBC thought about conservation. The efforts paid off and Pebble Beach gracefully sailed through the recent drought after investing millions in a water reclamation plant. Today it supplies all the water necessary to maintain their idyllic panoramas. Golf courses around the world have taken notice.
The 2017 IAGTO Sustainability Award
The PBC was recognized by the IAGTO for Resource Management, specifically for their water and renewable energy projects. The global golf tourism organization celebrates the outstanding sustainability achievements of golf facilities, resorts, and destinations around the world.
Tournament trophies in the Pebble Beach Golf Resort Lodge.
I spoke about the award with David L. Stivers, Executive Vice President, and Chief Administrations Officer. Solar panels built above the maintenance building were part of the accolades. A sophisticated sprinkler system helps avoid flooding in low-lying areas and makes sure sun-drenched spots never turn brown. Going green isn’t onerous, Stivers emphasized, “It’s also good business.”
The Executive Vice President and Chief Administrations Officer, David L. Stivers talks with Elaine Masters about the award and the long-term sustainability efforts at the Pebble Beach Golf Resort.
David Stivers in the Lodge lobby
At the upcoming AT&T Pro-AM Tournament, thousands of pounds of recyclable materials will stay out of landfills. Pebble Beach Golf Resort is working with partners to make recycling a comfortable part of the event. It’s no simple task with tens of thousands of visitors arriving for the event.
Sea Lions relax near the Pebble Beach Golf Resort greens.
I’m not a golfer but appreciate golf resort landscapes. Scooting around the greens in a cart on a lightly overcast morning, I peered into a cove where sea lions lolled. Deer were munching near multi-million dollar estates bordering the southern greens. They’re such regular visitors that the staff rarely notices them!
A mobile snack and drink cart visits players at the Pebble Beach Golf Resort.
I asked about where to stop for lunch along the 17 Mile Drive to Monterey. It turns out there aren’t any lunch options along the coast drive, so we opted for a window table overlooking the 18th hole in the Bench Bistro.
The bench and plaque commemorating American ownership of the Pebble Beach Golf Resort
Dirty Harry played here
In 1999 ownership of the resort came back into American hands. Significant among the names on the plaque outside the Bench restaurant (next to the actual bench) is Clint Eastwood, the actor-director who once was the Mayor of Carmel, a long-time resident of the area and a Resort investor.
Extraordinary! Wood-roasted strawberries with balsamic reduction sauce at the Bench inside the Pebble Beach Golf Resort
The sun shot rays through dark clouds as we ate and I saved room for dessert – a wood-roasted, strawberry cobbler. It was served directly from the oven in a small ramekin with a warm, balsamic reduction. A scoop of ice cream melted into the crust. I will never forget how the textures complemented each other, the sweet balanced with the sour, the crunch and the cream. It wasn’t a sophisticated presentation. It was simply perfect.
What a day! To quote a song, “I’ll never be royal,” but for a brief time, I felt like an American aristocrat.
The lodge with the Bench Restaurant lower center.
Can anyone visit Pebble Beach Golf Resort?
Yes, even without a reservation to stay (although the packages may tempt you.) There is a fee to enter but not to park. The website is welcoming, noting that, “While dining at our restaurants, please present your gate receipt to your server. With a purchase of $35, your gate fee will be reimbursed.”
Many thanks to the Pebble Beach Company for hosting our visit and congratulations again on the IAGTO award.
Prada art installation outside of Valentine, Texas
In West Texas extremes play well together. International fashion brands mix with far flung art installations, ghost towns host chili cook offs. Dinner may be chicken-fried, wild boar or resort ranch-groomed beef served with beer, long neck or artisinal. There were more surprises than I have room to write about! Welcome to the second half of my West Texas, Road Trip Planner.
Terlingua Ghost Town Motel – Basic, clean & a decent night’s sleep
A week wouldn’t be enough to explore everything in this ghost town area. While on the road with my sister, we spent a night in the Chisos Mining Hotel before leaving at dawn for a Saddle and Paddle tour organized by Lajitas Stables and Big Bend River Tours. Wander we did though – through oddball delights, (just what I love) with trailer murals, roadside attractions, a hillside full of crumbling, adobe buildings from the last century; all of it hosted by a jumble of sweet-hearted eccentrics. We fit right in.
Starlight Theater Dining – A great hangout but I sense it’s seen better days.
Ghost town church that’s been turned into new businesses over the years.
Travel Planner Tip
If you love chili, camping out and camaraderie put one or both of the notorious Ghost Town Chili Cook Offs on your itinerary when visiting Terlingua. Held each November, it’s really not about the chili, but dueling parties.
Lajitas Resort – Badlands Hotel Lobby Photo by Jack Hollinsworth
Luxury refinements and true grit hospitality complement each other at the Lajitas Resort and Golf Course. Reach the spacious settlement by road or via the local airport with charter flights from Dallas. I don’t golf but truly regret the light showers kept me from touring the course by cart. What a gorgeous landscape and undulating greens!
Lajitas Stables and bluff
Adjacent to the resort are historical sites – the golf shop is set into the old Trading Post. There’s a historical chapel, the Ocotillo Event space has seen its share of shootouts, and the Rio Grande borders the golf course. A decade ago golfers could swing to a green across the border and then back!
Our first night at the Lajitas Resort, a destination wedding unfolded on the terrace. Not surprisingly, the groom wore cowboy boots and his groomsmen had rhinestones on their jean pockets. Our room overlooked the greens and we toasted to the sunset from Adirondack chairs on the patio.
Ocotillo Events – Once the site hosted gunslingers & shootouts but peace reigns now. Photo – Jack Hollingsworth
Lajitas dining room just before dawn
The menu of services at the Spa was tempting for our sore muscles. The Restaurant offers a full buffet at dawn and dinners feature local game.
Riding through lunchbox canyon with our Lajitas Stables guide, Kelly
If you’re looking for adventure, Lajitas makes a fine home base. Guides will help scheduling ziplining, shooting practice, horse back riding and river rafting trips. My favorite outdoor experience in West Texas was a day spent horse back riding through canyons and up to mesas. Next we floated down the Rio Grande and even swam in rapids. The Saddle and Paddle package is an easy way to get into the countryside. If only we had more time for rafting and camping in the nearby canyons.
Trip Planner Tip
Don’t miss the Lajitas Trading Post and Golf Shop. Inside the historic building is an immense collection of steer horns and walls full of photos. The owner was offered a private collection of over 900 horns and they’re displayed from floorboard to ceiling throughout the space.
The famous beer swilling Mayor of Lajitas & his missus
Trip Planner Tip
Stop by and say ‘Howdy’ to the ‘Mayor’ of Lajitas. The old goat and his Missus live in a gated community’ adjacent to the Deli, which is a great spot to pick up sandwiches and souvenirs before heading out of town.
I’d been warned that the best of Big Bend National Park lays off the main road. It may be the case but even a few hours traversing the park is a worthy adventure. The bluffs and mesas are stunning. We spied Tarantulas crossing the road, Turkey Vultures and a family of camera shy, Javelinas turned tail quickly, scooting out of sight. The rock formations are formidable and while early fall was comfortably warm, I imagine the blazing summertime heat could melt tires. We drove through on a cloudy afternoon, which made it easier to stop for pictures… and wildlife.
Ranch signs dot the side roads.
Trip Planner Tip
Keep to 45 mph when crossing Big Bend National Park and watch highway speed limits carefully. There are speed traps and we would’ve been in trouble if locals hadn’t warned us. Driving slowly is perfect for spotting wildlife and admiring the landscape.
The National Historic Landmark Paisano hotel in Marfa, Texas.
Paisano Hotel, headquarters for Elizabeth Taylor, the cast and crew of the classic film, “Giant”.
There just can’t be anyplace quite like Marfa in the world! When New York artist, Donald Judd, moved here after WW2, he brought a minimalist sensibility that is still reflected and cherished throughout the town.
Entrance to the Judd Block. No pictures allowed inside.
Before arriving one tour operator told me, “There’s not much to do in Marfa.” I couldn’t disagree more. It’s not a family vacation kind of place with adrenaline-pumping distractions and hangouts for the kids, but they’d still enjoy sleeping in Tee Pees or Silver Stream Trailers at El Cosmico. The Tex Mex meals at Mando’s Drive In (or dine in) are inexpensive and cater to the locals. Transplant hipsters eat there too but are spied more often at the St. George Hotel or sip coffee freshly ground at the Do Your Thing cafe. The main street features the Palacio Hotel, by the architect Henry Troost and the City Hall building, all Victorian embellishments, offers views of the flat countryside from the upstairs windows.
Donald Judd’s presence lives on in a spare, adoring manner inside the compound he left one morning and never returned to. After failing health confined him in Germany, then New York, he spent his final months putting his effects into order. One stipulation for his compounds in Marfa was that nothing be moved. To walk the grounds, where no pictures are allowed, is a study of pensive solitude. The main bulding where he lived with his daughter when not traveling, has his sleeping loft and reflects a more homey warmth – barely.
A few of the Chinati Foundation field sculptures.
We spent a morning on the grounds of the Chinati Foundation on the outskirts of town. Pictures are only allowed in the field where 15 of Judd’s monumental cement works are set into the landscape. The play of angle and light, discovering relationships between edges and alignment would be impossible in any other space. These works are site specific and the dimensions are echoed in pieces arranged indoors, inside the large buildings reclaimed by Judd from the military. The largest buildings offer 48 and 50 rectangles, each different and built of steel. They have never moved from the spot they were designed for and will never be rearranged unless the earth heaves. Judd would approve.
When we weren’t searching for the Marfa Lights (unsuccessfully but with great company) and peering up at the Milky Way, our nights in Marfa were spent in town, courtesy of an Airbnb host. Our little casitas near the high school was well situated for walking to galleries and restaurants. Other accommodations include the Thunderbird Hotel, Bed and Breakfast Inns and the Palacio Hotel. I’d go back in a heartbeat.
Trip Planner Tip
Don’t plan on taking pictures or recording anything inside Chinati or the Judd Foundation. At first this irked me and I rebelliously took notes and sketched. Resistance was futile. I missed out and that’s kind of the point. To stand in those still spaces and just be, is to get a glimpse of what drove Judd to settle in Marfa. There is space and relationship, light and shadow. I surrendered to his vision and was far happier for the experience.
Return to El Paso
We met many Texans on holiday throughout our drive around West Texas. Most were road-tripping as we were and I wished there were time to continue on into the rest of the state. But our short visit came to an end with our return to El Paso. Before flying home to California, we toasted to the journey at Craft and Social while listening to a jazz combo over a happy hour priced bottle of wine.
Texas, we’ll be back.
Trip Planner Tip
There’s no one Texas. The second largest state in the Union, it’s vast regions are influenced by weather patterns, geography, history and proximity to Mexico. Don’t be fooled into thinking you’ll ‘get Texas’ with one visit. I imagine it could take a lifetime to discover everything.
Marfa, Hotel Paisano – An architetcural masterpiece by the renowned Henry Trost. Fully preserved and updated. Don’t miss the pictures from the making of Giant with Elizabeth Taylor, Rock Hudson and an effervescent, James Dean.
Hotel St. George – Chic and austere but still comfortable with an inviting lobby restaurant and the best bookstore in town.
El Cosmico – Tee Pee, tent and trailer campground on 18 acres.
Detail of one mural in the Gage Hotel, Marathon Texas
Brake for Turkey Vultures, Javelinas and Auodads
Americana, escape and wide open places – West Texas is good for what ails the urban spirit. I didn’t know how far gone I was until silence swamped me at a roadstop. A literal road stop. Just before entering Big Bend National Park, I couldn’t help but stop the car in the middle of the road and run out. On a rock cropping, as if posed for a John Huston western, at least a dozen black Turkey Vultures swooped and sat. There were no cars for miles until a Park Ranger pulled his rig close and cautioned us to pull over. The last thing he needed was a pair of tourist road kills.
Several times we did pull over for Javelinas. First we sped past an almond shaped creature who stood about four feet wide in the road. By the time we’d turned around he’d disappeared. They were good at staying out of camera range but I offer this picture, taken near Lajitas by the resort guide. The family of Javelinas, which are related to Pecaries, were in a canyon just beyond her home.
Javelina family spied near Lajitas
Auodads, large brown sheep, were imported into Texas after WW2 when soldiers returned from Africa. They’d learned what a delicious game animal they were. They also quickly learned that Auodads were not easy to keep. The animals escaped the original ranches and have flourished in the wild across West Texas.
One night in Lajitas, I looked out to the silhouette of a craggy mountain across the Rio Grande. The rocks moved! It was too far to capture on camera but there was a large four footed animal on the crest. I like to think it was an Auodad and so my only sighting.
Trip Planner Tip 1:
Research your options. The best we had for our road trip was a loose schedule. Lodging was set but how to get there and what to see was left up to us. It’s too easy to say that West Texas has something for everyone. I look for the off-beat, the historical quirks, the local hangouts that are usually just off the tourist radar. I’ve learned to surrender to the fact that you can’t see everything but look for the things that bring you joy and you’ll return home the happier.
The original El Caminio Real lobby
Dig into El Paso
El Paso brims with energy, history and revitalization. The city is easier to visit than ever with new flights at the El Paso International Airport. At this writing, five major airlines fly in and out. Of all the treasures we discovered, discovering El Paso was our road trip gold nugget. The city is full of urban delights – a restaurant and craft beer scene, theater, classic architecture and contemporary upgrades, sports, concerts, plus outdoor adventures nearby and the percolating exchanges of a long history with Mexico, just across a bridge from downtown. Read more about it in this post.
Enjoying the Balmorea Pool
Splash down in Balmorea
It’s not just the Tex Mex peppers, West Texas gets hot. The summers can be brutal and scorching. It was still warm when we visited in late September, after the monsoons passed, but comfortable. The idea of leaving downtown El Paso and diving into a natural spring pool less than 3 hours away, thrust us into the greening countryside early on our third morning in Texas.
The BIG Pool:
Part of the sweeping 1930’s New Deal plan brought workers to West Texas where the Civilian Conservation Corps built Balmohea State Park. Nearly eighty years later families, tourists and courting couples cool off in the waters of the ‘World’s Largest Spring Fed Swimming Pool.’ The depth goes from about three feet to nearly thirty and the water shelters small fish plus a feathery green growth coating the bottom. The fish were cute, the green slime bothered me, but the pool was clear and cooling. The reservoir is so unnusual that it’s a Texas Aquatic Science Certified Field Site and school field trips make good use of that in their curriculum. The idea that nearby fracking might impact the water tweaks my heart but it’s still in discussion across the region.
Trip Planner tip 2:
Don’t miss the drive from Balmorea to Fort Davis along Route 17. You could blast through in a half hour but leave time to meander and gawk. The canyon road is lined with rugged cliffs and on the afternoon we drove, sweetly devoid of big trucks that dog the main highways. It’s a short 32.4 mile drive but consider pulling over to hike or picnic.
The Drug Store Counter in Fort Davis
This small town is a find. The narrow main street hosts a few gift shops and small hotels. We stayed upstairs in the Drug Store in a large two, queen bed room with our own bath. Downstairs the old time drug store counter menu offers ice cream and milk shakes. A chorus line of round topped, red leather stools fronts the counter and wooden booths fill the dining room. The cash register sits atop a glass case full of fudge.
Fort Davis Drug Store Hotel
On our morning there I enjoyed a mug of complementary coffee downstairs before heading out for some exercise and to investigate the red rock bluff on the edge of the neighborhood. Turkey vultures caught the morning currents, their shadows crossed mine as I walked past small houses, churches and watched a backyard goat take to a tree. My sister and I had a fine dinner at the Blue Moon Restaurant across the street.
Trip Planner Tip 3:
There’s an Ice Cream stop on the outskirts of town. The Red Caboose is a local favorite and came highly recommended, plus it’s pet friendly.
Trip Planner Tip 4
History buffs can explore the old fort where Confederate General, Jefferson Davis, held his ground. The managers of Wall Drug Hotel are distant relatives!
Eve’s Garden BnB Marathon Texas
One of our draws to Texas was seeing Marfa, but we kept it for the end of our trip. Our night in Marathon was like an appetizer of things to come in the ‘art town.’ We swept into town late on a cloudy afternoon and barely checked in before taking off for dinner at the Gage Hotel.
Eve’s Garden is a visionaries delight with bright walls, colorful collections of art and less than 10 rooms, each unique and hand textured from recycled Papercrete blocks.
Seeing is believing, check out my video:
Gage Hotel Dining Room
Travel Planner tip 5
Don’t miss the White Buffalo Bar in Marathon. The Gage Hotel nods to shotgun culture but the sophisticated menu and graceful layout make this spot worthy of a celebrity sighting.
Part 2 of the West Texas Road Trip Planner is the next post. Continue the road trip through Terlingua, Lajitas, a bit of Big Bend National Park and Marfa.
Thanks for coming along for the ride!
Road view between Balmorea and Fort Davis
Links and other Trip Planner tips:
We used GPS but there are other sites with ample route suggestions for drivers and bicyclists, like: Distancesto.com
Plan your trip around weather. Check temperatures and weather patterns, then pack for comfort.
This list isn’t exhaustive. There’s so much to explore in West Texas like the McDonald Observatory near Fort Davis
Balmorea State Park has camping, trailer options and hiking trails as well as the famous natural spring reservoir. Check the website for hours and reservations.
Eve’s Garden in Marathon is worth a detour. The hospitality is warm, the organic cooking delicious and the space a unique, artful experience.
The Gage Hotel in Marathon is listed as #1 on many noted travel lists.
Fort Davis, – Spacious, comfortable and affordable. The upstairs room, with abundant WiFi, couches and tables is a great space for digital nomads!
Fort Davis, Lumpia Hotel: Fully restored historic property with a garden begging to be enjoyed.
El Paso Craft and Social – Jazz bar, beer on tap and Texas wines by the glass or bottle.
Long before it was full of Spring Break beach clubs and taco stands, Rosarito was a glamorous hub. Hollywood stars and U.S. servicemen partied at the few great hotels along the strand. I remember it differently as a kid. We often camped near the beach. I loved playing in the warm water with my siblings, a few feet from my parent’s teardrop trailer. One afternoon my mother had a big pot boiling on the back kitchenette and pulled a steaming red alien from the waters. It was my first lobster, caught by my dad who tagged along with locals. Over the years, each time we would visit Rosarito, the city had new amenities and returning now still excites me.
The Hotel Rosarito tower from the beach.
Camping has moved much further out of town now but finally I had a chance to visit the historical, Rosarito Beach Hotel. My young parents couldn’t afford the luxury then, but today travelers have the benefit of a generous exchange rate. Whether one of the traditional beach rooms, a villa, a suite in the tower or a visit to the spa, the hotel has managed to retain its historical, Spanish Colonial style while upgrading with all the amenities a visitor could want.
Here’s a glimpse of a rest stop on the coast route to visit Rosarito:
Today, Rosarito is an easy getaway, less than two hours by car from my hometown of San Diego. It’s fairly simple to drive from the border but I prefer being a passenger and watching the changing landscape. The coastal route along the toll road is my favorite ride south. There’s also an interior road from Tijuana which, while more crowded, is actually shorter. Those not wanting to drive have the benefit of bus and van services too. I left the driving to others on the most recent trip while joining a few friends and enjoyed a pleasant, air conditioned Tiketon shuttle van from the border. Before I knew it, we were walking into the historical lobby of the Rosarito Beach Hotel.
We checked in quickly and walked from the historical side of the property to the newer tower. This is the part of the hotel that I’d often seen from the freeway on trips to Ensenada or La Bufadora. The tower lobby ceiling loomed over us and opened to a tempting, spacious pool and bar. I had to pass on a swim as we were meeting soon for Margaritas and a short tour of the spa.
Tower bedroom suite
The hotel is partly condos and members have their own pool – on the rooftop with the best views in the region. On one side is the ocean, on the other the hill country of Baja spreads to the horizon. Beaches stretch as far north and south as one can see. It’s a beautiful spot for a swim too!
The Rosarito Beach Hotel, members only, rooftop pool
The view to the Tower pool from my room veranda
The original owner’s home has been converted into the Casa Playa Spa and a private dining space. Above the tiled entrance lobby, guest rooms are now service spaces for massages, facials, body wraps and other services. We learned that booking must be done in the spa itself and not to rely on the hotel desk.
The original home that now houses the spa and event space.
North of the hotel the beach area is spotted with big dance clubs that still roar to life on weekends but now there are more Mexicans partying than boozy, American college students. Weekends find families on the beach where tables can be rented by the hour, with or without umbrellas. Mariachis and food vendors come to you!
Dinner at Susanna’s
In the evening we went south from the hotel and stepped through a stone archway for dinner at Susanna’s. Susanne Stehr is a California girl who fell in love with the graceful beach style of Rosarito years ago. A natural interior designer, her restaurant is glowing with color and textures. Chairs are deeply upolstered, charger plates gleam as if in a home dining room and fresh creative dishes are served ‘California Style.’ Favorites include the Citrus Fruit and Sonoma Chicken Salad, Strawberry Salmon and Sonora Ribeye Steak entrees. Appetizers updated from local traditions like Jalapeno Cream Cheese Empanadas and Susanna’s Gourmet Tamales are moist and mild. The wine list overflows with vintages drawn from the famous Valle de Guadalupe wine region not 25 miles away.
You’d think we would never eat again but the next morning found us in the hotel main dining room for breakfast. So hard to choose from so much! Soon after being seated the table filled with platters of (shredded, roasted beef) machaca and eggs, fluffy omelets, home made sauces and delicious breads accompanied by fresh squeezed orange juice and mugs of aromatic coffee.
Rosarita Hotel Dining Room
Luckily there was time for a walk before returning to the border and we sauntered along the main road, passing cafes and restaurants, night clubs and shops. Across the beach road, neighborhoods stretched up to the main highway. Kids in uniforms walked past quickly on their way to school. There were several churches and more cafes full of locals. Here the village life style still works side-by-side with tourism. It’s a big part of why I love Baja and to visit Rosarito.
A food truck on the main street of Rosarito
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If you plan to visit Rosarito:
Crossing the International border takes a bit of preparation but recent improvements are making it easier and wait times shorter. Here’s a post about what to expect. I update it often.
Transportation around the region from the U.S. – Contact Tiketon for van pick up and prices: 619-428-0011 / To and from the Tijuana airport: 683-8113
Thank you to our Binational Liason, Juan Arturo Saldaña Angulo with Tijuana Tourism and Convention Bureau and tour organizer, Alexa Williams Meisler. The trip sponsors were the Tijuana Tourism and Convention Bureau and Rosarito Beach Hotel with transportation provided by Ticketon and Turismo Express.
“I can’t wait to get back to El Paso,” said the young man sitting in the next seat. He was flying back alone from a long weekend in California with his girlfriend. They’d spent time on beaches, played at Disneyland and relished fish tacos. Still home was calling, ‘There’s so much to do in El Paso,’ he said as we parted at the airport. He was telling the truth.
El Paso is a city on the verge. It’s not just the edge of the country, a short bridge span over the Rio Grande from Mexico, but it’s poised for glory. There’s an energy in the city that grabs you. The surprises include: a burgeoning craft beer scene, murals, a hillside of Bhutanese architecture, bike and running trails over mountains less than half an hour from downtown, a wine trail and vast green swaths of desert at the end of the monsoon season. The historical architecture downtown hosts bold lobbies by noted architects and retro, neon signs that still look new. Over three days I walked and drove, shopped and ate, drank and marveled from East to West. There’s still so much to see when you visit El Paso.
Downtown was the biggest surprise. Before I checked into my room at the sleek Hotel Indigo, rooftop lights caught my eye.
Less than two blocks away an expansive neon sign shone. Electricity, spelt out in tall glowing letters, sits on the top of the historic Martin Building. It’s an adaptation of the original neon work from the 1940’s and one example of the revitalization going on. Originally it spelt out: Use Electricity.
Original Use Electricity sign in downtown El Paso
Today the sign shines proudly from dusk to dawn. Local businessman, Lane Gaddy, is behind the renovation of the sign, and the building it tops, with a small group of local entrepreneurs.
Refurbished Electricity Sign in downtown El Paso
The Martin building has great bones and Gaddy’s turned it into a residential, commercial and retail blend, keeping the best features. He admits, “I love the juxtaposition of historic and old (features) contrasting with future and modern elements.” The Martin is filling up with downtown dwellers taking advantage of the great restaurants, theaters, shopping and services within walking distance of work. While his determination is taking time and persistence there’s still much to savor now downtown.
The original El Caminio Real lobby
Step into the El Camino Real Hotel, under arches created in an expansion from the 1970’s and you might miss the best features entirely. Walk past the stucco add-on and into a room overflowing with embellishments from the early Industrial Age. The original “Million Dollar” lobby, named for its pink marble and gold leaf, was supplanted and turned into the Dome Bar. Over a circular bar that rises in the center of the room, a giant dome refracts shifting light through petals of glass in faceted jewel tones. It rivals the sister Tiffany dome in Chicago and has been authenticated by the Library of Congress.
Tiffany dome in the El Camino Hotel
When the Camino Real Hotel was new guests could tip bell men and watch the Mexican American War raging across the border fron the rooftop. North American imperialism finally won and over time a wide bridge was built to bring commerce and workers between Juarez and El Paso. Tourists would shop and eat in the Mexican plazas. Goods moved freely. It all shifted, of course, when 9/11 brought border closures and then rival cartels began their reign of terror. Today things have calmed and business men like Lane Gaddy still move back and forth across the border daily. Gaddy sees glimmers that tourism is returning too. I was tempted to set up a day tour but there was so much more to see and my time to visit El Paso was short.
Building facades downtown in El Paso
Top of the Kress Building in downtown El Paso
One evening just before dusk my sister and I grabbed our cameras and took to the streets. Downtown architecture and vintage signage had me curious. We found a large Kress store facade looming next to one of the first independent Hilton ‘sky scrapers.’ It’s currently under contract with the Hilton Corporation for renovation into a multi-use facility. The days of architect Henry Troost are visible all around the main, San Jacinto Square.
Henry Trost designed the elements inside the Hotel Cortez
My favorite find? The Cortez Building. Stepping inside was a time traveling trip. So many details remain and still look new. There were alcoves in the main lobby set with vintage furniture and the elevator exterior was a wonder of artful tile work, brass and sconces.
Nearby the Plaza Theater has been completely renovated and I can’t recommend a tour or attending an event in the vintage performance palace enough.
A few blocks away the new baseball stadium is open on one side. A wrought iron gate stands between the field and street, where, as part of a compassionate civic mandate, those who can’t afford tickets can watch a game. It’s a short walk from the Chavez Theater, built to resemble a sombrero and the adjacent convention center.
Museum of History El Paso
Just north of the stadium, the Museum of History looms. It’s no stuffy showcase. Visitors first walk past the Digital Wall where, with a finger tip, they can touch a lengthy collage and open up notes from photographers, historians, culinary experts and artists. The vast art museum sits next to the Plaza theater filled with Texas creative works and rotating exhibits from both sides of the border.
The Rio Grande River marks the area still. Just outside of downtown since the 1990’s, Heritage Gardens volunteers have been working to preserve wetlands and native vegetation in a graceful park laced with trails featuring sculptures, ponds, and rock walls set with a gallery of mosaic murals. There are play areas and picnic tables, benches to sit and ponder upon, plus a raised platform over tidal pools that fill with migrating ducks and wildlife.
Looming over El Paso is the Franklin Mountain range. It’s inside the city limits! When you visit El Paso you must head for the hills. The mountains above town offer a network of trails and roads and it’s close. The Wyler Mountain Tramway winds up the east side and from the west, the Franklin Mountains State Park is a wildlife refuge. Outdoor experts like Don Baumgartner, founder of Geo Betty Tours, leads groups and bike rides. Climbers are fond of granite outcroppings. When you visit, bring plenty of water and snacks, better yet plan a picnic in one of the many shaded seating areas and scan the hills for goats and other wildlife.
Don Baumgartner, GeoBetty founder and guide in the Franklin Mountain State Park
Ivonne near the Sneed’s Cory climbing rock in the Franklin State Park
Once the trolley is back in service it’ll be easier to move from downtown to the University District Entertainment Center. The campus stands out from a distance as most of the buildings were built on dimensions from Bhutanese temples. Founded in 1914 the Texas State School of Mines and Metallurgy took its inspiration from Kathleen Worrell, wife of the first dean. She was fascinated with a National Geographic magazine photo-essay about the ancient kingdom and convinced her husband that the new campus be built in the same style.
Bhutanese Temple in the center of University of Texas El Paso
The homage is more than skin deep as many Bhutanese artifacts are housed there. The University sponsors bi-annual Bhutan Days and enrolls a growing number of Bhutanese students each year. In the center of campus sits an authentic Bhutanese Ihakhang, house of god, but it’s not there as a working temple. Made with no nails or modern machinery the building was slated for demolition after a show at the Smithsonian in Washington, D.C. I walked around it and peered in windows. The campus and the temple are things of beauty and the closest I’ll probably get to the kingdom of Bhutan.
The biggest boots! Guiness World Record winners inside the Rocket Buster workshop. More about El Paso’s cowboy boot workshops in the next post!
Once El Paso and its neighbor Juarez, just across the Rio Grande River had reached a detente the two regions and countries worked together. They supplied each other with labor, jobs, shopping, restaurantes, tourism and an efficient transnational trolley line was in use before every family had a car.
Unfortunately once cars and freeways ruled, public transportation declined across the Americas. One reason for the El Paso – Juarez line’s demise is cecause it was “too successful!” A cross-border rivalry between merchants cut the service. Finally, in 1977, Mayor Ray Salazar ordered the El Paso trolley tracks removed.
If only those lines were still intact! New tracks are being laid and stations set. After retiring the line, a half dozen of the original Art Deco cars had been baking in a field near the airport.The good news is that by 2018 the historical Trolley system will be back in service with the line extended from downtown out to the University.
I’m looking forward to returning to ride and discover more when I visit El Paso again.
Next post we’ll be dipping into the craft brewery and food scene in El Paso. Subscribe and don’t miss a story!
Special thanks to Visit El Paso for making this trip possible.As always, all views are my own.
Downtown Chicago is overflowing with classic architecture and a history of high and low culture. Early skyscrapers graciously step up and back as they rise to better allow natural light to reach the street and pedestrians below. It’s just one of the architectural refinements that would’ve escaped me entirely if it weren’t for the Historic Chicago Walking Bar Tour and pub crawl. The promise of insights into architecture, local history, great drinks and company lured my travel buddy and me out on a vibrant Friday night. Over two hours we dipped into hidden lobbies, studied classic facades, historic photos on iPads and explored an underground watering hole. The tour began in the Argo Tea Cafe on Randlolph Avenue, an easy walk from our hotel, the Hyatt Centric on the Loop.
Lobby sitting area inside the Hyatt Centric the Loop
Hyatt Centric the Loop rooftop bar with views to the lake.
Given the mild spring weather it was a pleasure to cross the river, enjoying beds of tulips scattered across wide avenues and stop to sip draft Kombucha at the Argo Tea Cafe. The registration fee covered the basics and tip cash was collected at the outset. After that we simply had to follow the leader, Elizabeth. She spoke quickly and began by engaging us in creative guessing games, then expertly herded us over the 3/4 mile walk. The veil of time was pulled aside with every anecdote, as she pointed out a sconce, bricked over window, elaborate carvings and so much more.
The clock inside the historic newspaper building of the Chicago Tribune.
Through a doorway at the back of the tea shop we stepped into the historic Tribune Newspaper lobby. The towering skyscraper stands as a shrine to news, to a grander era with chandeliers, arched windows and a coffered ceiling that made us hush in respect. The walls and floor were inscribed with quotes with more than 120 stones embedded inside and out from important locations around the world. Most unusual was the tall, muted world map behind the desk. The layout was vertical and pale; mountains and continents stood in relief. Shredded dollar bills had been pulped and molded to create the three dimensional relief!
Out we went to the corner where the Shriners had built their Medinah temple just before the Stock Market crash in 1929. Carved with exotic reliefs with Abyssinian figures and winged embellishments drawn from Islamic designs, the building is topped by a burnished gold dome. Originally, the story goes, it was part of a dirigible docking station before the Hindenberg disaster turned those plans to ash.
Entrance to the subterranean, Billy Goat Tavern, immortalized in a SNL skit.
The city is no stranger to ashes. The great Fire of Chicago in 1871 devastated nearly 4 miles of downtown. It created a new slate for the captains of industry to erect a more ideal metropolis. They created an underground where trash and delivery systems still keep truck traffic off the upper downtown streets. Downstairs, just a block from the Tribune building, stood a corner bar, The Billy Goat Tavern, immortalized by an early Saturday Night Live skit. We saw the ‘Wise Guys Corner,’ where early newspaper men and women spent long hours listening and drinking. The Goat is home to single/double/triple burgers and local brews. Our samples were served at an alcove table surrounded by framed photos of the original Billy Goat Siannis and his mascot side by side with media giants, sports figures and celebrities.
Sharing a snack on our pub crawl with Detours Chicago
Those were just a few of the stops covered in the Historic Chicago Walking Bar Tour. As it drew to a close, we passed the flagship Dylan’s Candy Bar. Cocktails in candy hues, garnished with gummy bears and sprinkles were on the bar menu (for those over 21.) The rest of the multi-level shop was a play land full of teens and young families, topping their evening with sweet confections of all kinds.
The flagship store of Dylan’s Candy Bar
Tiffany’s Peacock Doors inside the Palmer House Hilton Hotel.
After our pub crawl tour goodbyes we chose a different dessert, a late night brownie, in the hotel where they had been invented. The Palmer House stands proudly full of marbled columns, a cavernous central courtyard. The street lobby once once housed C.D. Peacock Jewelers. When the hotel was rebuilt after the great fire, the jewelers drew the elite in through gilded Peacock doors created by Louis Comfort Tiffany. Inside the lofty hotel lobby several bars were in full flow for the Friday crowd. We chose a quiet booth in the restaurant and enjoyed plates of grilled octopus and vegetables before indulging in a brownie, created from the original recipe. (I’d recommend eating in the bar where it’s a bit noisier but there are better prices.)
Stepping into the Palmer hotel lobby
Brownie created from the original, first ever Palmer Hotel recipe.
Bertha Palmer, the original owner’s wife, was a savvy business woman and patron of the arts. She ensured that the City’s elite visited the hotel often. The story goes that, for a picnic box lunch with her society swells, Bertha asked the hotel chef to create a dessert that was less messy than sliced cake. The Brownie was born. Nearly a century later we were served a round Brownie made from the same recipe. It sat on a bed of chocolate syrup sprinkled with chips, nuts and cookie crumbles. My verdict? The round brownie was light, and more milk chocolate than the dark full flavor that modern brownies provide. It’s just a matter of taste, I like high cacao content chocolate, still not a crumb went to waste.
It was getting late but the night weather was mild and the street pleasantly peopled. Full of new facts about architecture, full of delicious food and drink, the walk back to our room at the Hyatt Centric Loop was the perfect night cap.
View across the river after our pub crawl. Yes, that’s one of Donald Trump’s towers.
Disclosure:Chicago Detours offers many architectural walking tours around Chicago. We loved the Historic Chicago Walking Bar Tour and look forward to returning to sample more of their trips. We also thank the Hyatt Centric the Loop for our media rate. Our pub crawl was complementary but all opinions are mine.
If you go on a historic pub crawl
DeTours Historic Walking Tours. The historic pub crawl was our choice but there are many tours to select from. It was great mixing speakeasy ambiance, meeting locals and out-of-towners, plus the tickle of learning while tippling! Detours Historic Chicago Walking Bar Tour.
Hyatt Centric the Loop: Just steps from downtown attractions, restaurants, the high rail, it’s a new concept in hotel luxury. The lobby is modest but there’s an upstairs lounge, the Corner, with a snack bar, espresso machine, several rooms for dining and meetings. Our room was plush but modest – we had all we needed, enough space, lots of well placed outlets and great WiFi. The staff was courteous, thoughtful and my only regret was arriving a few days before they opened the rooftop bar in the evenings. It’s a perfect perch for a mild evening. The Hyatt Centric the Loop.
Palmer House Hilton Hotel
There are so many historic hotels to enjoy in the downtown Chicago Loop that it’s hard to focus on just one. For this foodie, when I heard that the Palmer House was the origin of brownies and that they were still baking the original recipe, the chance for a time travel tasting was too good to pass up. (Plus the elegant Palmer was less than two blocks from our hotel.)
Hope you enjoyed this post and get a chance to explore Chicago.
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Once storks migrated through the lake country where the renowned city of Geneva now stands. That past is given a nod in the golden stork that reigns over the entry of the Hotel de la Cigogne. The luxurious hotel is a gem set between buildings and narrow streets. It stands on the plain that sweeps up from the waterfront and into the historic district. While an international business and political hub, the Geneva district is the renowned also for shopping, culinary traditions, historic sites and makes a perfect setting for a romantic getaway.
Lake Leman with a glimpse of the historic city in the upper left.
After flying in from London, I arrived at the main train station within a half hour. The sky had darkened and a misty rain was falling, softening lights and window displays. As I walked a patchwork of dark and bright cobblestones in Place du Molard caught my eye. At night the wide street is illuminated. Many of the glass ‘stones’ were lit from from beneath and imprinted with a greeting in several languages from around the world. It made this travel weary tourist feel welcome and was less than a block from my hotel rendezvous.
From the moment the hotel doors opened, luxurious textures, light and color from stone, deep rugs, stained glass, glittering chandeliers and hand troweled plaster acted as antidotes to the outside world of rush and hard modernity. It is partly illusion, carefully created, from the renovation of the 1901 building after it’s purchase by local architect, Mr. Rene Favre. He preserved the facade only, raising the interior and added a metal superstructure. Clever technical touches are embedded. The elevator runs whisper quiet and swift, lighting is placed to illuminate but never intrude. A discreet warmth flows from fireplaces, staged for comforting efficiency. Seasoned flagstones are set strategically.
This American felt out of her league but that faded fast. The staff were so friendly and made me feel most welcome. The Manager helped me to my room, a junior suite that was perfectly set for a romantic rendezvous. A curling stair led into the suite sitting area and I imagined descending to my sweetheart who would be waiting with a glass of champagne. However this was a solo trip and the waiting tray of fruit, nutmeats and chocolates were mine alone.
Live like royalty in a suite at Hotel de la Cigogne
I freshened up and began a short tour of the other suites. Each was more beautiful than the next. Designer/owner, Mr. Favre was an antiquities connoisseur, who collected furniture from secondhand trades for years. Restored bureaus, sconces and much more were placed in suites and along hallways as if he were decorating a private estate.
His piece de resistance was in selecting fabrics for the hotel. Daring deep, jewel tones flowed from walls into complementary tapestries and brocades upolstering settees and lounges. Polished desks beckoned. The bathrooms were completely renovated and, while not large, featured smooth stone work, designer fixtures, glass shower doors, deep tubs (not in every room) and many had bidets.
Details in the Hotel de la Cigogne lobby
I longed to sit in the lobby drawing room, to sink into an armchair observing the European clientèle, with a book on my lap and a glass of wine beside me. However it had been a long journey from Los Angeles to Geneva and I had a deep bathtub to soak in before resting up for my city tour the next morning. Had I known about this luxury beforehand I’d have extended my visit.
A secret about Geneva
Hotel de la Cigogne is often full of business visitors but weekends in the historic district are usually quiet and spared the crowds overflowing other parts of Switzerland. Rooms are more affordable on those days. If planning a tour of the graces of Geneva, I hope you consider a romantic getaway in the hotel guarded by a golden stork.
It doesn’t get much sweeter than this; sun most days of the year, easy to get to and affordable. Oceanside always surprises me. It’s one California beach city that is too often overlooked, but that’s changing.
Tom Cruise’s house featured in the movie, Top Gun.
Perched between the military base, Camp Pendelton, and San Diego proper, it’s often just a blip on the GPS for drivers going north or south, but they’re missing out. I love spending a day or two walking downtown, visiting the beach, the museums and discovering new restaurants and happy hours. The harbor area is worth exploring too.
The city rolls out its best for events year round. A giant heart balloon is seen around town during Valentine’s week. There are multiple charity runs and organized bike rides. Cultural events abound from the Oceanside museum, the Surf museum, the Starlight theater and galleries. The craft brew and gastropub scenes are percolating. Some great sushi and seafood can be found from white tablecloth establishments to casual pizza, health foods and taco stands.
Josh Weigel and his draft Kombucha at Living Tea.
Hello Betty has seating indoor, rooftop or along the sidewalk.
A view from the pier.
The California Surf Museum, local murals and the Oceanside Art Museum.
My favorite is the beach. The pier is long and worth a stroll whether it’s stormy or the sky is bright. Along the waterfront quaint bungalows line the sea wall. The wide open sand makes dipping into the water a must. If you love surfing or boogie boarding, the waves will make you delirious.
Views from the Springhill Marriott Hotel in Oceanside
Where to stay for your California beach adventure in Oceanside?
There are several BnB’s in the area and a number of hotels. The fresh, Springhill Suites Marriott, just a block from the water, is one choice. The view from their roof top pool is stunning.
Photo courtesy of Masters Kitchen and Cocktail
Where to eat in Oceanside:
Wrench and Rodent Seabasstropub is a culinary adventure you’ll savor long after the plate’s clean. Award-winning, Chef Davin Waite features local seafood, produce, and chef-picked ingredients.
Zig Zag Pizza Pie lets you pick your ingredients, your drinks out of the cooler and chops salads just steps from the Oceanside pier.
The most recent mural outside of Wrench and Rodent on South Pacific Highway.
Getting to your California beach adventure in Oceanside:
Drive: The beach is just west of the Interstate 5 freeway and Pacific Coast Highway off Mission Boulevard.
Ride: The Amtrak station is close to downtown and the beach. There’s a great deal for weekend travelers from Metrolink. You buy a pass for Saturday or Sunday for just $10 to travel anywhere Metrolink goes. It makes visiting Oceanside even easier with the terminus there and access to the Coaster and Amtrak lines throughout San Diego County (a separate ticket.)
Here’s some of the views going into Oceanside along the coast.
Whether it’s a short vacation or a swim stop between destinations, there’s lots to do and explore on a California beach adventure in Oceanside.
Extend your California beach adventure and travel anywhere on the Metrolink system for just $10 on Saturday or Sunday with the Weekend Day Pass. More info:http://www.metrolinktrains.com/news/p…
I hope that you enjoyed this brief California beach adventure and will share these pins.
Cape Rey Resort fire pits make a get away warm and cozy.
It was a guilty pleasure to spend a night away from home in the middle of the week. So close and yet so far away! I drove north from downtown San Diego for meetings and pulled into the Carlsbad Cape Rey resort before returning. What made it doubly sweet was that my beloved joined me for dinner and a romantic evening. Mixing up the schedule can be such fun and this mid-week get away had us smiling.
The Cape Rey is set across from the beach on Pacific Highway 101 in Carlsbad but south of the busy downtown business district. From our room, I watched the sun set over the ocean and woke the next morning to admire a peachy sky as dawn broke. The resort is laid out to take advantage of the views and most rooms face the waves.
A room with a view.
If I’d arrived earlier the kitchen would have gladly packed a picnic lunch and pointed out the best beach spot to enjoy it. What a beach it is too! When conditions are favorable surfers skim the waves. A State campground butts up to the strand and before leaving I watched dolphins surfing but they were camera shy.
For those of us needing more luxury than camping offers, the Cape Rey has lots to offer. The wide entry is set with soft lighting and comfortable alcoves. Several bikes wait for riders near the front door. The large pool is poised for perfect afternoon sun-bathing. There are terraces to lounge on and several fire pits perfect for cozy conversations.
Ferdinando inside Chandlers
I especially enjoyed Chandler’s restaurant and bar. The decor is warm but not in the over-crowded style of many bar/restaurants. At dinner, we sat side-by-side in a cozy corner booth where we could people watch. There were locals and business clients in conversational clutches at tables and counters. The staff was cordial and genuinely seemed to like their jobs. I was able watch them interacting. How well everyone gets along speaks volumes about the management.
The shimmering Starry Night Cocktail
I ordered a cocktail that actually shimmered. The ‘Starry Night’ is a blend of Absolut Mandarin Vodka, Viniq Liquer, Lemonade and Proseco. It was a mellow Martini, filled with a dancing Viniq mist that swirled in the Proseco bubbles.
Breakfast, welcome gift and dinner bites at the Cape Rey Resort & Chandler’s Restaurant
Next we shared a plate of fresh Burrata Mozzarella with vine ripened Heirloom Tomatoes. It was artfully plated with arugula, grilled vegetables and asparagus spears. A side of herb bread and cheese crusted cracker triangles made it almost a meal in itself. But we managed to finish that along with a Spinach Quinoa salad before our Wild Mushroom Pizza arrived. I have a weakness for wild mushrooms (see my previous post about hunting them locally) and this was a slice (well, three) of bliss. Just enough garlic Alfredo sauce was dotted with smoked Gouda, Beechwood and Oyster Mushrooms. I’ll exercise it off tomorrow, I told myself!
Morning came too soon and while I elected to work out in the gym and tour the Spa, my beloved soon headed out to his office. For breakfast we found that Teri, the Cape Rey chef, had filled the slim menu with traditional options alongside creative, light and healthy choices. We sipped a Healer Smoothie full of peaches, ginger, turmeric and pea protein (one of eight to choose from!) and shared the Farmer’s Sunrise Biscuit plate.
The sun was overhead before I pried myself away from the Cape Rey. On the ride home it was easy to smile. Romance, beauty, great food and drink – What’s not to love in a get away?
Disclosure: I was a guest of the Cape Rey Hilton Resort for my room and breakfast but as always opinions are my own.
Beach, sand, balmy breezes – all present and expected when visiting a Fort Lauderdale beach hotel. What I hadn’t counted on was the luxury and sensory pleasures I’d discover at the Atlantic Hotel & Spa.
The joy of any visit to Florida rests on where you lay your head. Mine was luxuriously treated to featherweight comfort at the Atlantic Hotel, just steps from the waves on the waterfront. Notorious Fort Lauderdale spring break crowds have long since moved on and the city has stepped quietly in to establish a fine food culture, support an arts district, a science and arts center to linger in and encouraged construction of gorgeous hotels that take advantage of the long, sandy beaches. The canals host luxury yachts. There are restaurants and bars to please all manner of visitors and budgets. I was fortunate to check in at the Atlantic Hotel as part of the TBEX Food FAM Trip and couldn’t have been happier.
Audrey Hepburn stars in multi-media artwork in the lobby at the Atlantic Hotel
While waiting for my room, there was abundant WiFi and cooling fruit water to be enjoyed in the lobby. Color surrounded me from the rotating gallery of paintings by local artists to textures from wood grain to gilded mirrors.
Double room at the Atlantic, Fort Lauderdale
Atlantic Hotel amenities, Fort Lauderdale
Room view, Atlantic Hotel, Fort Lauderdale
Bathroom Atlantic Hotel, Fort Lauderdale
The room was opened onto a small veranda where I was treated to a light show every morning as the sun rose over the waves and as it happened, to the full moon rise on my last night. The bathroom was spacious with two sinks, a full bathtub and separate shower plus water closet.
Sunrise from the Atlantic Hotel, Fort Lauderdale
But the real surprise was the hotel restaurant, Beauty and the Feast. On the Sunday I checked in a buffet overflowed with brunch treats and a crowd filled tables inside and out. That evening as the bar sprang to life, I met my group of foodies. We sat in a private area as a series of small plates and one large platter rotated around the table.
A few plates from our dinner at Beauty and the Feast, Atlantic Hotel, Fort Lauderdale
No one eats till each dish is documented! With apologies to my TBEX foodie friends.
From sunrise to sunset, a winning location and attention to detail, the Atlantic is one Fort Lauderdale beach hotel I’d happily return to.
My stay in Fort Lauderdale was partially underwritten by the Fort Lauderdale Visitors Center and part of the TBEX Food FAM trip. Regardless, the opinions shared are all my own.
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The first light slipped through a crack in the thick, panel curtains. Before going to sleep I’d considered closing them completely but jet lag would’ve had me missing half the next morning and I didn’t want to squander a minute of the trip.
There were a few new sounds from the street below. Listening closely I could make out the faint warning of a cross-walk audio but it was nested in a murmuring bustle that was new to this suburban, California gal. It was my first time waking up in New Orleans.
That excitement alone would’ve had me bounding out of bed and getting ready for the day but our room at the Whitney was so comfortable. My sister and I had requested two beds and were given two rooms separated by a double door. It was just a part of the discrete and luxurious service we experienced during our two nights at the hotel.
The Whitney is a Beaux Arts beauty listed on the National Historic Registry. The building was originally the Metropolitan Bank and designed by one of the most prestigious architectural firms of the post-Civil War era. Today if you peer into the dining room past the marble columns and its huge mural, there’s a mystery.
The Whitney Hotel dining room with the bank beyond.
A room beyond is brightly illuminated and separated by a vault door but the two spaces share marble columns and a tall, embellished ceiling. I wasn’t allowed to take pictures of what’s beyond. It’s actually a branch of the Whitney Bank and still in full service.
Valet entrance, the Whitney Hotel
When we arrived by cab from the airport (about a 20 minutes ride,) he dropped us off at a formal, side entrance and a valet brought our luggage inside. We signed in at an old tellers desk and on the way to the elevator passed the bank vault, now a banquet room.
The Whitney Hotel vault banquet room.
As part of the New Orleans Collection of historic hotels, the Whitney is well situated for exploring the French Quarter but just far away enough to be quietly accessible. Around the corner, there’s a St. Charles Line Trolley stop. That couldn’t be more convenient. It goes out through the Garden district and to the Audubon Park and loops back to Canal Street before returning. It was perfect for our walking vacation.
One night we ventured to Frenchman Street, on the far side of the French Quarter, for music and dinner. Returning to the Whitney was simple. Ready for a stroll, we slowly walked to the hotel. Taxis were everywhere but even at the late hour there were so many people out on the street we felt relaxed about taking our time and walking, two gals enjoying a late, fall evening.
Whitney Hotel Reception
The Whitney exudes its historic background but isn’t stuffy – the amenities are up to date and always being upgraded. We enjoyed coffee in our room, the bathroom was generous enough for two gals to spread out and we each had our own TV. I loved having fast, complementary WiFi. The only thing missing was a place to sit and discuss our plans for the day – One of us sat in an armchair, the other on a bed bench. It was a minor rub.
Inside the Trade Finance Museum
Being on the edge of New Orleans’ Financial District explained the neighborhood hush the weekend we were there. Offices were closed and workers were home. A park is around the corner next to the Federal Reserve Bank of Atlanta which houses the Museum of Trade Finance on the first floor. Getting in required a security clearance as stringent as any airport but little museum was charming and interesting. Little bags of shredded bills came home as souvenirs.
In the Museum of Trade Finance a label reads: “The shreds in this bag are of unfit currency.” Now we know where old dollars go to die.
New Orleans is overflowing with charm and discoveries. I look forward to returning to find more and resting my head on those perfect pillows at the Whitney Hotel.
Our stay was partially underwritten by the New Orleans Collection of hotels, but the opinions are my own.
Not many realize it but most everyone’s seen Petaluma in movies like American Graffiti and dozens of TV shows. Once the “Egg Capital of the World,” today the city’s well out of it’s carton. The small downtown’s saved the best of its 1800’s architecture. Storefronts house culinary exploits befitting a burg on the edge of the wildly popular Napa-Sonoma wine region and proximity to San Francisco. There are shops full of handmade clothing, retro to modern arts and crafts, and bakeries are full of locals in the mornings. Personality burbles onto the sidewalks. A river runs through it too.
Cuddly critters spied in a Petaluma storefront.
I thought I had a handle on the place after visiting dozens of times over the years. So it was a revelation to pull up to the Metro Hotel and be transported into an eccentric version of Parisian culture.
Metro Hotel garden
There’s no question why accolades have been heaped on the inn. It’s in the top twenty most unique hotels in the country with awards from Sunset and Vacation Ideas magazines. Trip Advisor fans can’t speak highly enough.
Cafe in Metro Hotel
Why the French accent? The couple behind the place took over the 1870’s building in 2004. The wife makes regular trips back home to France and can’t stop returning with retro remnants of her home country. Her husband runs the place and is doing well competing with the bigger hotel chains closer to the freeway.
My family stayed upstairs in a two bedroom suite with one bath. We had a claw foot tub with a shower and deeply comfortable beds. The staff was more than happy to give me a tour and I couldn’t stop taking pictures.
Bedroom in Metro Hotel
There’s a cottage to rent too and most amazingly, several shiny Airstream guest rentals on the property. I’ve heard they’re fun but can be chilly in the winter but would love to test the theory. A bocce ball court beckons just outside the back door.
One of the Airstreams at Metro Hotel
In the morning we helped ourselves to pastries and pour over coffee. The WiFi was great. There were comfortable places to sit and relax, to work or read indoors or out, but the creative distractions kept me savoring the space with every sip.
Banquet room at Metro Hotel.
There’s plenty of free parking, tandem bikes to enjoy on the flat terrain and it’s a short walk to restaurants (within a few minutes drive from downtown.)
Sadly we were there for just one night. For dinner we walked two blocks towards the riverfront and listened to a theater company doing a reading of Shakespeare’s Julius Caesar while we supped on salads and pizza.
Bakery cafe in Petaluma
It was a perfectly unique sojourn and I look forward to returning to Petaluma again. Especially when the renovations at the historic and much larger, downtown Petaluma Hotel are complete.
Humpback whales breech, hurling themselves out of the water and crash down again. The yearly migration drama happens all around us in the channel between Maui and the island of Lana’i. Our forty-five minute ride across the strait between the islands was transport to another realm. I soon discovered that a Lanai adventure is far from the Hawaii I knew of crowded hotels, raucous luaus and flashy Polynesian floor shows.
Lana’i is full of contrasts: spare landscapes and teeming waters, green fields and dusky canyons, red dirt and blue bays. They bless the gentle island with a unique presence. The differences begin with the wind which keeps the island unusually dry. Moist clouds are blocked by the neighboring islands of Maui and Moloka’i. Tradewinds push through the channel between them. Those winds crossed over 2,000 miles of open ocean to squeeze through the seven mile channel between the islands. Still our crossing was surprisingly gentle.
Lana’i has transformed in recent history and continues to. The sloping volcanic landscape is the one constant. Comb-like tips of conifers line the crests again. Most of the trees were cut down when the island was planted with pineapples. The trees are being replanted now that most of the pineapples are gone after markets were flooded with cheaper Indonesian imports.
The original Dole hunting lodge.
Dole Corporation built a plantation town to house workers. A lodge built for hunters and the administration still sits on a slope looking East to the blue horizon. A recent change in ownership has closed the buildings temporarily as housing for contractors working on renovations at the Four Seasons Resort. Above the lodge front entrance a tall pineapple mural faces horses, the golf course and the ocean beyond.
Richard’s Market, Lana’i
One colorful Lanai village shop
The village’s Dole Park and the lodge are most of what’s left of the original developments. The town remains a warren of plantation bungalows and small businesses on a grid of narrow streets. There are no chain stores or even a stoplight. Galleries, cafes, small markets and gift stores line the central park. You can walk it in less than an hour.
While the island has a reputation for luxury, high thread count charm can be found at the Hotel Lana’i. It was built in 1923 by James Dole to house his plantation executives and until 1990 this was the only hotel on the island. National Historic Registry status continues with 11 only guest rooms. Henry Clay’s Rotisserie and Grill hosts live music on Thursday nights.
Four Seasons Lana’i Resort
Lobby in the Four Seasons Lana’i
High end luxury continues at the Four Seasons Resorts Lanai at Manele Bay. There’s a multi-million dollar renovation underway that should be complete by the next holiday season. The resort is set a respectful distance from an ancient burial ground. It offers members and guests exceptional service, state-of-the-art smart suites and villas full of bespoke furnishings and commissioned works. Several restaurants compete on-site with extraordinary culinary experiences. Beyond the newly renovated pools and volcanic cultural site, picture perfect Manele Bay often fills with dolphins in the afternoons. Indigenous birds and wild turkeys feed on the edge of the bramble. The luxury is quiet and complete.
Birds at the Four Seasons Lanai
For those wanting more immersion the Cultural and Heritage Center, the Art Center and the Tourism Board offer classes that visitors won’t find elsewhere. Most come for the restful beauty and return for a Lanai adventure of a different kind of Hawaii. I know I want to come back.
Many schemes have been hatched to bring the island jobs and sustainability. Today residents work in the service and tourism industries. Each year they help hunters keep the Axis deer population under control with lodging, supplies and guides. In the last few years the majority share ownership of the island transferred to Larry Ellison of Oracle Corporation billions. His influence has been slowly evolving with hotel renovations and a push to find more sustainable utilities for the community. There’s a wary progression but the locals have a voice and Ellison appears to be listening.
Subscribe and don’t miss the next post: Visiting Lanai – Shipwrecks, mud and the wilds.
If you go:
Lana’i Culture and Heritage Center – www.lanaichc.org Educational and cultural workshops for locals and visitors. Located in the village.
Lana’i Art center – www.lanaiart.org Art and cultural experiences for vistors and locals.
Mahalo to the Lana’i Visitors Bureau for hosting my overnight adventure. I look forward to returning. Aloha. Proudly joining a superb group of travel bloggers on the Weekend Wanderlust, Weekend Travel Inspiration and the Weekly Postcard linkups. Explore their posts!
Mexico loves holidays and celebrations. Year round there are days devoted to family and music, feasts and remembrances. It’s a mix of history, revolutions won, church holy days and family celebrations. I was lucky to be in Guadalajara for Mother’s Day and to play with the locals.
Tlaquepaque sign, Guadalajara
The art district of Talaquepaque isn’t far from the city center. The name Tlaquepaque derives from Nahuatl and means “place above clay land”. Historically it refers to a large part of the city, but today is focused in a shopping and restaurant area filled with galleries and markets, high and low.
A cobble stone path led me past restaurant courtyards spilling over with patrons. The lilt of guitars, accordions, and singing rose and mixed above quiet groups taking pictures and visiting. Women walked arm in arm, young men strutted with strollers, their broods following, and grandfathers carried babies. Everyone seemed to be eating and shopping. It was a uniquely Mexican crowd. Very few appeared to be foreigners.
The spirit of Mariachi, Guadalajara
The central market, filled with flowers and fruit, cheeses and crafts, was closing as my girlfriend and I crossed the cathedral courtyard. We were on a mission to find something cold to drink and try out the chairs that are indigenous to the area.
The chairs are built of wooden slats criss-crossed to form the base and back. Smooth leather is slung across the seat. We found them near the plaza of El Parian, inside the block-wide arcade. Cafes and bars surrounded a center open to the afternoon sun. A gazebo was crowded with musicians. The vocalist, dressed in ruffled red, worked the crowd, flirting and waving from one table and another.
Singer in El Parian
Before I left the avenue there was just time to walk through the Sergio Bustamente Gallery with it’s beautiful garden and rooms full of whimsical, strange and anthropomorphic creations. The renowned artist was born in Culiacan, Sinaloa, Mexico, but has lived in Tlaquepaque area since early childhood. Inside was a bright maze full of bronzes and brightly painted sculptures, canvasses and glass cases with fantastical jewelry. It was a little universe unto itself and a magical discovery. I’ve been charmed before by his large public sculptures along the Malecons in La Paz and Puerto Vallarta.
Bustamente Gallery, Tlaquepaque
As we wandered back to join our group for dinner, we passed an inviting courtyard. It was an entrance to a small, bed an breakfast inn. Hotel Casa Campos was once a convent that has been turned into a guest house. My glimpse of the rooms off the patio convinced me that I’ll have to return and stay there one day.
Casa Campos Courtyard
The day was wearing towards twilight. It was time for dinner and we joined friends at the Santo Coyote cafe. Again the pattern of a modest entrance leading to a large space filled with art, people enjoying food, drinks and music opened to us. You just have to know where to enter!
Santo Coyote, Guadalajara
It was a magical day, warmed by the embrace of all the families enjoying their time together. Guadalajara warmed my heart and I slept dreaming of Bustamente’s mythical creatures twirling with me on cobble stone streets in the moonlight.
Thank you to NATJA and the Tourism authority of Jalisco for organizing this introduction to the treasures of Guadalajara.