Category Archives: Vacation travel

Pebble Beach Golf Resort – Indulge in sustainable luxury

Pebble Beach Golf Resort greeen.
Between the petite village beauty of Carmel-By-The-Sea and the boardwalk diversions of Monterey lies one of the most iconic drives in the world – California’s 17 Mile Highway. The world class golf resort of Pebble Beach is tucked into that drive. The course is usually reserved there is usually reserved for the members, the wealthy and deep-pocketed international tourists. During tournaments, those willing to watch and party with the world’s best golfers can visit for a pittance of the price to play (about $500, if you can get a reservation.) Otherwise, there’s a guard house entry but that needn’t keep you from visiting whether you play golf or not.
Marker in the green commemorating the founding of the golf resort.

Golf course medallion commemorating the founding of the golf resort.

Historic sustainability
Nearly a hundred years old, the Pebble Beach Company has flourished through keen sensitivity and observation. Abundant water is a requirement for any golf course. In the 1970’s, a drought clenched water use throughout the state. Long before saving water became trendy the PBC thought about conservation. The efforts paid off and Pebble Beach gracefully sailed through the recent drought after investing millions in a water reclamation plant. Today it supplies all the water necessary to maintain their idyllic panoramas. Golf courses around the world have taken notice.
The 2017 IAGTO Sustainability Award
The PBC was recognized by the IAGTO for Resource Management, specifically for their water and renewable energy projects. The global golf tourism organization celebrates the outstanding sustainability achievements of golf facilities, resorts, and destinations around the world.
Tournament trophies in the Pebble Beach Golf Resort Lodge.

Tournament trophies in the Pebble Beach Golf Resort Lodge.

I spoke about the award with David L. Stivers, Executive Vice President, and Chief Administrations Officer. Solar panels built above the maintenance building were part of the accolades. A sophisticated sprinkler system helps avoid flooding in low-lying areas and makes sure sun-drenched spots never turn brown. Going green isn’t onerous, Stivers emphasized, “It’s also good business.”

journeys of discovery podcast

Listen here to the NPR Podcast interview about Pebble Beach Resort’s sustainability and conservation efforts

The Executive Vice President and Chief Administrations Officer, David L. Stivers talks with Elaine Masters about the award and the long-term sustainability efforts at the Pebble Beach Golf Resort.

David Stivers in the Lodge lobby of the Pebble Beach golf resort.

David Stivers in the Lodge lobby

At the upcoming AT&T Pro-AM Tournament, thousands of pounds of recyclable materials will stay out of landfills. Pebble Beach Golf Resort is working with partners to make recycling a comfortable part of the event. It’s no simple task with tens of thousands of visitors arriving for the event.

Sea Lions relax near the Pebble Beach Golf Resort greens.

Sea Lions relax near the Pebble Beach Golf Resort greens.

I’m not a golfer but appreciate golf resort landscapes. Scooting around the greens in a cart on a lightly overcast morning, I peered into a cove where sea lions lolled. Deer were munching near multi-million dollar estates bordering the southern greens. They’re such regular visitors that the staff rarely notices them!
The mobile amenities cart is available for players at the Pebble Beach Golf Resort.

A mobile snack and drink cart visits players at the Pebble Beach Golf Resort.

I asked about where to stop for lunch along the 17 Mile Drive to Monterey. It turns out there aren’t any lunch options along the coast drive, so we opted for a window table overlooking the 18th hole in the Bench Bistro.
The bench and plaque commemorating American ownership of the Pebble Beach Golf Resort

The bench and plaque commemorating American ownership of the Pebble Beach Golf Resort

Dirty Harry played here
In 1999 ownership of the resort came back into American hands. Significant among the names on the plaque outside the Bench restaurant (next to the actual bench) is Clint Eastwood, the actor-director who once was the Mayor of Carmel, a long-time resident of the area and a Resort investor.
Extraordinary! Wood-baked strawberries with balsamic reduction sauce at the Bench inside the Pebble Beach Golf Resort

Extraordinary! Wood-roasted strawberries with balsamic reduction sauce at the Bench inside the Pebble Beach Golf Resort

The sun shot rays through dark clouds as we ate and I saved room for dessert – a wood-roasted, strawberry cobbler. It was served directly from the oven in a small ramekin with a warm, balsamic reduction. A scoop of ice cream melted into the crust. I will never forget how the textures complemented each other, the sweet balanced with the sour, the crunch and the cream. It wasn’t a sophisticated presentation. It was simply perfect.
What a day! To quote a song, “I’ll never be royal,” but for a brief time, I felt like an American aristocrat.
Pebble Beach Golf Resort Lodge

The lodge with the Bench Restaurant lower center.

Can anyone visit Pebble Beach Golf Resort?
Yes, even without a reservation to stay (although the packages may tempt you.) There is a fee to enter but not to park. The website is welcoming, noting that, “While dining at our restaurants, please present your gate receipt to your server. With a purchase of $35, your gate fee will be reimbursed.”
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Many thanks to the Pebble Beach Company for hosting our visit and congratulations again on the IAGTO award.
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Travel Notes & Beyond

Longwood Gardens – Winter lights and bright nights

Longwood Gardens Conservatory entrance
Longwood Gardens Conservatory entrance
The weather was unseasonably warm for Christmastime in Philadelphia. I unzipped the padded liner on my coat and joined the family for an outing to Longwood Gardens. We’d procrastinated and bought our tickets the day before – grabbing a few of the last.  The crush of crowds is kept to a minimum with numbers limited on the property at a time.
Longwood light reflections
What makes Longwood Gardens such a hot ticket for the holidays?
The lights!
Spread out over 1,077 acres, Pierre du Pont (Yes, of the famous Dupont family) built one of the greatest gardens in the world in the 1920’s. In winter it’s especially tantalizing with thousands of light displays spread across limbs and roots, across bridges and around fountains. But I think that the vast labyrinth of Conservatory buildings are the real treasure.
Tree decorated inside the Longwood Gardens conservatory
Boiler room of Longwood Lights worked to warm the Conservatories into the 1960's!

Boiler room of Longwood Gardens worked to warm the Conservatories into the 1960’s

A plaque on one Conservatory entrance reads:
“Longwood Gardens is the living legacy of Pierre S. du Pont, inspiring people through excellence in garden design, horticulture, education and the arts.”
I was unprepared for the impact that walking through the dark and acres of trails would have on me. The night was chilly for a Southern Californian but mercifully still. As we strolled, children and families chattered, giggled and strode by. Some brought flashlights but I was glad we didn’t; preferring to let my eyes adjust to the dark and splashes of illuminated color.
Longwood lights wrapped tree
Poinsettia display inside the Longwood Gardens conservatory.

Poinsettia display inside one of the Longwood Gardens conservatories.

At one point, four G-scale trains wound over a 17 foot steel bridge, past a 5-foot wide waterfall, and past miniature Longwood landmarks. The landmarks are built from natural materials – roof tiles are laid of magnolia leaves and there are handrails of honeysuckle vines.
Longwood lights miniature train building

Longwood lights miniature train building

Du Pont in Banana room

Du Pont in his Banana House

A Banana House for Philadelphia
Mr. du Pont had a passion for growing fruit indoors – including tropical crops. Just after the Conservatory was opened in 1921, the Banana House was one of many areas where he grew fruit for his employees, friends and family. In 1983 the space was reduced to expand the Orchid House. How times and priorities have changed. A plaque near the entrance is inscribed:
To Pierre Samuel DuPont and presented by the people of the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania for his ‘generous and unselfish service.”
Inside one Longwood Lights conservatory

Inside one Longwood Lights conservatory

The main house was closed that evening but we spent a few minutes listening to an organist as he brought the historical pipes to life. The space inside the Conservatory was warm and rows of chairs inviting. As the music lifted up to the lofty glass ceiling above us, our spirits rose in kind. It was a bittersweet moment – remembering the lyrics and mumbling along, remembering loved ones gone and missing, remembering childhood and how special this time of year was and remains. Misty eyed, hearts full of the spirit of the season, we left soon after to drive back to central Philadelphia.

Longwood Lights organist

If you go to Longwood Lights:
  • Miss the crowds at the ticket booth and purchase tickets online. (They do sell out!) Longwood Gardens Website.
  • Be prepared to walk and dress in layers.
  • Wear comfortable shoes and bring a little cash for hot chocolate or cider in the Gardens.
  • Read a pleasant exploration of Pierre du Pont and the Longwood estate history on The Short History Blog

Charlie’s always home in Chaplin’s World, Switzerland

Visit Switzerland and Chaplin's World Museum
Inside Chaplins World with Oona and Charlie

Inside Chaplins World with Oona and Charlie – © 2016 Marc Ducrest for Bubbles Incorporated

Visiting Switzerland solo was a leap for this tropics lover. I arrived in the midst of winter with my pack full of warm clothes and an over-flowing itinerary. Of all the places I looked forward to seeing, Chaplin’s World was high on the list.

Celebrities have always flocked to Switzerland. Charlie Chaplin ended up there almost by accident. While in Europe promoting his silent classic, Limelight, London-born Chaplin received a forboding telegram. America was in the midst of the McCarthy era. He would be banned from returning to the United States unless he testified before the House on Un-American Activities. He refused, saying, “I’m not going back.”

Visit Switzerland and Chaplins world to step inside Charlie's studio

Inside the Chaplin’s World studios, Switzerland, © 2016 Marc Ducrest for Bubbles Incorporated 

Eugene Chaplin remembers that his father was considering property in Southern France with it’s temperate climate. However he fell in love with the beauty of the Geneva region. After purchasing a 13-acre property facing the Alps, Manoir de Ban became the family home for the rest of Chaplin’s life.

“We love Switzerland more and more each day.” Charlie Chaplin wrote in a letter to Clifford Odetts, 1954.

More than sixteen years ago Michael Chaplin, the oldest son, told Yves Durand and Philippe Meyland, that the home was going to be sold. The architect and designer soon convinced the family to turn it into a museum. Today personal archives full of mementos, costumes and props are preserved in displays. The family dining table is set for dinner. Chaplin’s movie studio is intact and has been enlarged. Most innovative are the mannequins fashioned laboriously in Madame Tussaud style and placed strategically throughout. Charlie Chaplin is reincarnated. Wax actors stand in front of scenes from his silent films. Visitors can stand next to Oona Chaplin and Charlie in their private screening room. Everything is designed to be touched, to be photographed.

Video from the opening of Chaplin’s World.

Unfortunately, the museum opened after I left Switzerland, but on a chilly December night in Hollywood, I met Eugene Chaplin in the Raleigh studios where his father, Mary Pickford and Douglas Fairbanks worked under contract.

Eugene Chaplin speaking in the Chaplin Theater inside Raleigh Studios

Eugene Chaplin speaking in the Chaplin Theater inside Raleigh Studios

Eugene spoke about his father’s perfectionism. The piano where Chaplin composed music for his silent films, still sits in the living room. A folding movie screen was set up and scenes were projected repeatedly until Chaplin felt the music was a perfect match. It was a ground-breaking transcription process for film music.

Me and Eugene Chaplin at Raleigh Studios

Me and Eugene Chaplin at Raleigh Studios

Of all Eugene’s stories this one makes me want to explore Chaplin’s World more than ever: A visitor told Eugene that her young son was a big Chaplin fan. Eugene asked which movie was his favorite. It’s not the movies, she replied, “He’s a fan because of the museum.”

Douglas Fairbanks, Mary Pickford, Charlie Chaplin and D.W. Griffith on the day they signed contracts with United Artists

Douglas Fairbanks, Mary Pickford, Charlie Chaplin and D.W. Griffith 1919, on the day they signed contracts with United Artists

“The Tramp never had a home,” Michael Chaplin has said. Today he has.

If you visit Switzerland and Chaplin’s World:
Travel Notes & Beyond

This holiday visit one fun park – Knotts Merry Farm

Charlie Brown Chritstmas

Charlie Brown Christmas

Strains of the music from ‘A Charlie Brown Christmas’ swirled around me as I stepped into Knotts Merry Farm all decked out for the holidays. Memories flooded in. I’ve always loved theme parks. Riding rollercoasters, seeing shows and running around with family and friends was easy growing up in Southern California. Knotts Berry Farm was fun no matter what age and visiting the fun park kicked my holiday spirit into overdrive.

Photo Opp with Snoopy at the holiday fun park Knotts Berry Farm

Photo Opp with Snoopy

Snoopy and I go way back. As a young graphic designer I worked for Determined Productions adapting the beloved Charles Shulz characters for toys and accessories. Snoopy and Woodstock were the most popular and I met them once again in the fun park.

Snoopy on ice in Knotts Holiday Show

Snoopy dances in the holiday show!!

Knotts started in the 1930’s when Mrs. Knott started serving home-fried chicken and berry pies for pennies to locals. The home kitchen expanded, the hybrid Boysenberry was discovered and grown on the farm and Mr. Knott built a small ‘ghost town’ to entertain visitors while preserving local history. It’s all still there, if you look.

Mrs. Knott cooking in Knotts Restaurant

Mrs. Knott cooking.

Boysenberries are still grown on a memorial plot inside the park but today kids run around Camp Snoopy, teenagers get their thrills on towering rollercoasters, adults do too when they’re not taking in the Ghost Town sights and shops. Trains, stage coach rides and saloon shows run all day.

Santas Christmas Barn in Knotts Merry Farm

During the holiday season a tall Pine tree stands decorated in the main square and each evening at dusk a small crowd draws near. Carolers, dressed in Victorian garb, cover the stage. A ‘sheriff’ steps up to the microphone to address the good people and signals the lighting of the tree. It’s a lovely ritual in the middle of the fun park.

Here’s a short video of the fun park:

Snoopy dances and serenades families in a holiday show running November 19th to January 8th. There’s hot cider and chocolate in Santa’s Barn (and a fortified version for the grownups!) but most families gather for snow. Each evening right on schedule it falls from overhead. Even in warm Southern California the wintry spirit of the holidays perseveres.

The show inside the Mystery Lodge is a thrilling nod to Native Americans who once lived nearby

The show inside the Mystery Lodge is a thrilling nod to Native Americans who once lived nearby.

Ride the train through the Calico Mine

Ride the train through the Calico Mine

One thing I discovered is how affordable Knotts Merry Farm is compared to other parks. It makes sense that families and friends of all ages filled the fun park. Entrance is less than half of the other giant theme park near by and the experience is less crowded and more intimate.

Discount tickets can be found online and inside the California Welcome Center (see links below.) Housed in a historic building on the original stage coach line, it’s worth a visit on it’s own. There are tours, maps, brochures and ticket specials for all the Buena Park activities.

Photo opp outside the historical California Visitors Center Buena Park

Photo opp outside the historical California Visitors Center Buena Park

Whatever the reason or season, I look forward to visiting Snoopy again and eating more of Mrs. Knott’s famous berry pie in the fun park, Knotts Berry Farm.

Links for visiting the fun park, Knotts Berry Farm

Knotts Website: https://www.knotts.com/

Tickets at the Buena Park Visitors Center: http://visitbuenapark.reservedirect.com/da/knotts-berry-farm-buena-park

California Welcome Center: http://www.visitbuenapark.com/visitors/california-welcome-center/

Where to eat and drink well in El Paso, Texas

Breakfast at the Downtowner in El Paso
Whatever you prefer, you'll eat and drink well in El Paso

Whatever you prefer, you’ll eat and drink well in El Paso

El Paso, it was love at first bite. After arriving late and missing dinner, having breakfast was our first Texas task. We found deep mugs of coffee and a meal worthy of any hungry traveler at the Downtowner Restaurant. While I opted for a Rancheros Omelette, my sister ordered the Salmon toast. My tummy was jealous!
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Food is a big part of any adventure. As I was soon to discover not all is Tex-Mex in El Paso. Here’s some of the best places to bite and sip when you’re in the area.

Breakfast at the Downtowner inside the Hotel Indigo in El Paso

Breakfast at the Downtowner inside the Hotel Indigo

Downtowner restaurant el paso

A relaxing and spacious dining room with just the right touch of elegance, the Downtowner became our go-to spot for meetings and snacks. The nooks and booths were tempting to linger in but we had much to explore in El Paso.

Camino Real Dome Bar

Drinks with a view inside the Dome Bar El Paso

Drinks with a view inside the Dome Bar

 

So lucky! We almost missed seeing the Dome Bar inside the historic Camino Real Hotel. Here’s a short video about the experience.

Local Brews

Dead Beach

Yes, El Paso has it’s own craft brewery scene! I fell for the smooth, nutty Abuelita Stout that Dead Beach Brewery creates. Infused with Pecaho Coffee, it was spicy and sweet – just like hug from Grandma. The brewery is just a year old and unfortunately for me only open on weekends, but several bars carry their variations.

Master brewer, Albert, at work inside the ODE Brewery, El Paso

Master brewer, Albert, at work inside the ODE Brewery

 

Ode Brewery

Ode Brewery is out in the University District. Bags of spent hops sat near the brewery door as we stepped towards the restaurant. The place is comfy, simple and authentic. There’s no doubt that the owners are fanatical about their passion. Loved the ‘Spoliated Barley Water’ Menu featuring seasonal beers and recent releases. La Gringa, their American Blonde Ale, is worth importing (Hear that, San Diego?) Look for the label across the country soon as the distribution ramps up.

Alligators in San Jacinto Plaza, downtown El Paso

Alligators in San Jacinto Plaza, downtown El Paso

Tap Room

No visit to El Paso is complete without seeing the Alligators in San Jacinto Plaza, the historic heart of downtown. The statue rises from a central pool and shifting lights flicker across the behemoths. In the 1950’s seven live Alligators lived in the pond. Shennaigans eventually led to them being moved to the zoo. Rumors continue about the Alligators showing up inside the Tap Room bar across from the plaza and other spots around town. Today the neighborhood hang out hosts live Jazz and a full bar. No Alligators in sight.
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Craft and Social

A friendly spot around the corner from Hotel Indigo, Craft and Social hosts local and state wide brews, a tasting menu and live jazz. The happy hour specials are not to be beat.

Vin Valle Vineyards in El Paso, Texas

Vin Valle Vineyards

Vin Valle

El Paso has it’s own wine region and we sped out of town to check out Vin Valle Winery. The shop is hosted by the owners and the barrel room is worth seeing with the lengthy, hand painted table in the center. It matches the cheery and cheeky label designs too.

coffee box el Paso

Coffee Box

Finding local coffee hangouts is tantamount on my tourist list. Downtown, the Coffee Box rises from the edge of a parking lot. Made out of cantilevered box cars, a nod to the history of the railway in El Paso, the Box is open early to late. There’s WiFi and compact lounge areas indoors and out.

Monticello and Hillside Coffee

Monticello

Monticello – Hillside Coffee

The University District has a new development brewing with housing, shops and restaurants. I found the Hillside coffee house a nice spot to cool off and check email for a few minutes. The shops carry local goods.

Crave El Paso East Location

Crave El Paso, East Location

Best Breakfast in El Paso – Crave

With several locations in the city, we decided to visit the east El Paso location of Crave Kitchen and Bar. Chiliquilles to die for, a playful interior, patio and deeply upolstered bench seating and bottomless coffee – I only wish we were there long enough to dig into a meal at each location. The locations are open for breakfast through to dinner.
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Dinner in El Paso

Anson El Paso downtown

Anson soup in El Paso

Anson 11

In the central downtown district, this elegant Bistro focuses on the finer things from table to decor. Cooling sprays keep the sidewalk diners comfortable. Wanting a light dinner I focused on the soups and breads. My sister had a salad and we were thorougly satiated. A mighty painting of the restaurant’s namesake, Anson Mills looms over the space. His local roots run deep as a United States Army officer, surveyor, inventor, and entrepreneur who even named and laid out the city of El Paso. There’s nothing stuffy about Anson 11 with it’s trippy artwork juxtaposed with a librarian’s sensibility!

tabla entance

tabla serves native beef in el paso

Tabla

Infused liquors, tapas and regional flavors kicked into high gear – that’s Tabla. Tucked into the warehouse district close to the stadium, generous servings and one of the best meals I had in the area.

Riviera Bar and Cantina

No visit to El Paso would be complete without enjoying Tex-Mex. We had platefuls at the east side restaurant, the Riviera. Satisfying, casual and full of locals.

cattlemans steakhouse

Cattleman’s Steakhouse

Even though I’m not a big red meat eater, I couldn’t leave Texas without indulging in a bit of steak. I only wish we had more daylight hours at Cattleman’s Steakhouse. The ranch has had lots of media attention; you’ve seen it in TV shows and movies. There’s a petting zoo and odd animal collections to walk around. The sunset views are some of the best – especially enjoyed over dinner. I had an appetizer of tender ‘beef cubes’ and it was perfect. No salads though on the menu! How Paleo can you go?!

Riviera Bar and Restaurant

Where to dine and drink in El Paso

Downtowner: Comfort food in a chic decor inside Hotel Indigo

Crave: Three locations open for breakfast, lunch and dinner

Anson 11: Bistro and fine dining with regional, American cuisine

Tabla: Tapas, infused liquors from an award-winning team

Riviera Bar and Cantina: Tex Mex and local hangout

Cattleman’s Steakhouse: East of town but well worth the drive. Famous for steaks, movie sets and animals.

Coffee Box: Casual spot with WiFi, patios and lounge seating

Monticello: Shops, restaurants and the Hillside Coffee Cafe

El Paso Beer and Wine

Dome Bar inside the Camino Real Hotel: Historic decor and fine drinks.

Dead Beach Brewery: Promising new brewery in downtown El Paso.

Ode Brewery:  Ambitious brewery with first location in the University District

Vin Valle:  Family run tasting room in the panhandle vineyard region.

Tap Room: Neighborhood Bar with jazz nights across from San Jacinto Plaza Alligators.

This trip was made possible by the El Paso Visitor’s Office. I thank them for pointing me in the right directions and helping me discover El Paso. All opinions are always my own. 

weekend wanderlust April 2016

Travel Notes & Beyond

Revealing West Texas – Your Road Trip Planner, Part 1

Make sure that Balmorea is in your road trip planner
Mural in the Gage Hotel, Marathon Texas

Detail of one mural in the Gage Hotel, Marathon Texas

 Brake for Turkey Vultures, Javelinas and Auodads
Americana, escape and wide open places – West Texas is good for what ails the urban spirit. I didn’t know how far gone I was until silence swamped me at a roadstop. A literal road stop. Just before entering Big Bend National Park, I couldn’t help but stop the car in the middle of the road and run out. On a rock cropping, as if posed for a John Huston western, at least a dozen black Turkey Vultures swooped and sat. There were no cars for miles until a Park Ranger pulled his rig close and cautioned us to pull over. The last thing he needed was a pair of tourist road kills.
Texas critters for your road trip planner
Several times we did pull over for Javelinas. First we sped past an almond shaped creature who stood about four feet wide in the road. By the time we’d turned around he’d disappeared. They were good at staying out of camera range but I offer this picture, taken near Lajitas by the resort guide. The family of Javelinas, which are related to Pecaries, were in a canyon just beyond her home.
Spying Javelinas can be part of your Texas road trip

Javelina family spied near Lajitas

Auodads, large brown sheep, were imported into Texas after WW2 when soldiers returned from Africa. They’d learned what a delicious game animal they were. They also quickly learned that Auodads were not easy to keep. The animals escaped the original ranches and have flourished in the wild across West Texas.
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One night in Lajitas, I looked out to the silhouette of a craggy mountain across the Rio Grande. The rocks moved! It was too far to capture on camera but there was a large four footed animal on the crest. I like to think it was an Auodad and so my only sighting.
  • Trip Planner Tip 1:

    Research your options. The best we had for our road trip was a loose schedule. Lodging was set but how to get there and what to see was left up to us. It’s too easy to say that West Texas has something for everyone. I look for the off-beat, the historical quirks, the local hangouts that are usually just off the tourist radar.  I’ve learned to surrender to the fact that you can’t see everything but look for the things that bring you joy and you’ll return home the happier.

The original El Caminio Real lobby

The original El Caminio Real lobby

Dig into El Paso
El Paso brims with energy, history and revitalization. The city is easier to visit than ever with new flights at the El Paso International Airport. At this writing, five major airlines fly in and out. Of all the treasures we discovered, discovering El Paso was our road trip gold nugget. The city is full of urban delights – a restaurant and craft beer scene, theater, classic architecture and contemporary upgrades, sports, concerts, plus outdoor adventures nearby and the percolating exchanges of a long history with Mexico, just across a bridge from downtown. Read more about it in this post.
Enjoying the Balmorea Pool

Enjoying the Balmorea Pool

Splash down in Balmorea
It’s not just the Tex Mex peppers, West Texas gets hot. The summers can be brutal and scorching. It was still warm when we visited in late September, after the monsoons passed, but comfortable. The idea of leaving downtown El Paso and diving into a natural spring pool less than 3 hours away, thrust us into the greening countryside early on our third morning in Texas.
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The BIG Pool:
Part of the sweeping 1930’s New Deal plan brought workers to West Texas where the Civilian Conservation Corps built Balmohea State Park. Nearly eighty years later families, tourists and courting couples cool off in the waters of the ‘World’s Largest Spring Fed Swimming Pool.’ The depth goes from about three feet to nearly thirty and the water shelters small fish plus a feathery green growth coating the bottom. The fish were cute, the green slime bothered me, but the pool was clear and cooling. The reservoir is so unnusual that it’s a Texas Aquatic Science Certified Field Site and school field trips make good use of that in their curriculum. The idea that nearby fracking might impact the water tweaks my heart but it’s still in discussion across the region.
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  •  Trip Planner tip 2:

    Don’t miss the drive from Balmorea to Fort Davis along Route 17. You could blast through in a half hour but leave time to meander and gawk. The canyon road is lined with rugged cliffs and on the afternoon we drove, sweetly devoid of big trucks that dog the main highways. It’s a short 32.4 mile drive but consider pulling over to hike or picnic.

The Drug Store Counter in Fort Davis

The Drug Store Counter in Fort Davis

Fort Davis
This small town is a find. The narrow main street hosts a few gift shops and small hotels. We stayed upstairs in the Drug Store in a large two, queen bed room with our own bath. Downstairs the old time drug store counter menu offers ice cream and milk shakes. A chorus line of round topped, red leather stools fronts the counter and wooden booths fill the dining room. The cash register sits atop a glass case full of fudge.
Fort Davis Drug Store Hotel

Fort Davis Drug Store Hotel

On our morning there I enjoyed a mug of complementary coffee downstairs before heading out for some exercise and to investigate the red rock bluff on the edge of the neighborhood. Turkey vultures caught the morning currents, their shadows crossed mine as I walked past small houses, churches and watched a backyard goat take to a tree. My sister and I had a fine dinner at the Blue Moon Restaurant across the street.
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  • Trip Planner Tip 3:

    There’s an Ice Cream stop on the outskirts of town. The Red Caboose is a local favorite and came highly recommended, plus it’s pet friendly.

  • Trip Planner Tip 4

    History buffs can explore the old fort where Confederate General, Jefferson Davis, held his ground. The managers of Wall Drug Hotel are distant relatives!

Eve's Garden BnB

Eve’s Garden BnB Marathon Texas

Marathon

One of our draws to Texas was seeing Marfa, but we kept it for the end of our trip. Our night in Marathon was like an appetizer of things to come in the ‘art town.’ We swept into town late on a cloudy afternoon and barely checked in before taking off for dinner at the Gage Hotel.
Eve’s Garden is a visionaries delight with bright walls, colorful collections of art and less than 10 rooms, each unique and hand textured from recycled Papercrete blocks.
Seeing is believing, check out my video:
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Gage Hotel Dining Room

Gage Hotel Dining Room

  • Travel Planner tip 5

    Don’t miss the White Buffalo Bar in Marathon. The Gage Hotel nods to shotgun culture but the sophisticated menu and graceful layout make this spot worthy of a celebrity sighting.

Part 2 of the West Texas Road Trip Planner is the next post. Continue the road trip through Terlingua, Lajitas, a bit of Big Bend National Park and Marfa.

Thanks for coming along for the ride!

Road view between Balmorea and Fort Davis

Road view between Balmorea and Fort Davis

Links and other Trip Planner tips:
  • We used GPS but there are other sites with ample route suggestions for drivers and bicyclists, like: Distancesto.com
  • Plan your trip around weather. Check temperatures and weather patterns, then pack for comfort.
  • This list isn’t exhaustive. There’s so much to explore in West Texas like the McDonald Observatory near Fort Davis
  • Balmorea State Park has camping, trailer options and hiking trails as well as the famous natural spring reservoir. Check the website for hours and reservations.
  • Eve’s Garden in Marathon is worth a detour. The hospitality is warm, the organic cooking delicious and the space a unique, artful experience.
  • The Gage Hotel in Marathon is listed as #1 on many noted travel lists.
  • Fort Davis, – Spacious, comfortable and affordable. The upstairs room, with abundant WiFi, couches and tables is a great space for digital nomads!
  • Fort Davis, Lumpia Hotel: Fully restored historic property with a garden begging to be enjoyed.
Food Tips:
  • El Paso Craft and Social – Jazz bar, beer on tap and Texas wines by the glass or bottle.
  • Fort Davis Red Caboose Ice Cream stopna
  • Fort Davis, – They don’t make them like this anymore. Family style cooking and a full service counter.
  • Fort Davis, Hotel Limpia Restaurant – Blue Mountain Bistro a fine dining experience with a full bar menu or dining room. Tapas and much more.

This trip was spurred by an invitation from Visit El Paso and the Brewster County Tourism Offices. Many thanks for their arrangements and guidance. All opinions as usual are my own.

Share please (and thank you!)

Visit West Texas and stay at Eves Garden in Marathon Texas on your road trip

Junp into adventure in West Texas with a stop at Balmorea Springs

weekend wanderlust April 2016

Travel Notes & Beyond

Five casual dining spots serving the best food in Tijuana

Telefonica Gastro Park is the center of where to find the best casual food in Tijuana
Just one of the delireously delicious dishes inside Telefonica Gastro Park

Just one of the delireously delicious dishes inside Telefonica Gastro Park

Ban the thought of filling up on nachos, rice and beans when dining on a budget in Tijuana. You can save the bucks for fine dining, and there’s plenty of that here, and still explore the city through it’s more modest eating establishments. Here are five places with fine brews and some of the best food in Tijuana. You will eat very, very well!

After 9/11 it wasn’t easy to enjoy Tijuana’s culinary scene, but cross-border systems are being stream-lined and now heading over for a day or dinner is becoming simpler. Long before the 1970’s spring break bacchanals in Tijuana, the city was the west-coast Prohibition escape for celebrities and mobsters. During WW2, it was the drinking hole for the Pacific Fleet. Tourism dried up with terrorism fears as new passport restrictions were enforced. Recently innovations have made visiting Tijuana much easier (Border crossing tips here) and cartel business has moved south of Mexico City. The area’s opened up again to its glorious heart – full of feasting and celebrating life through serving the best food in Tijuana.

Dia de los Muertos altar inside the Mercado Hildalgo

Dia de los Muertos altar inside the Mercado Hildalgo

Here’s a few of the fantastico places to find great meals and drinks that will help you save money for shopping and more travel:

The bustling center of Mercado Hildalgo a great place to find the best food in Tijuana

The bustling center of Mercado Hildalgo

1.Mercado Hildalgo – The oldest open marketplace in the central city buzzes with activity every day of the year. It’s most fun to visit during the holidays, when sugar skulls and decorations abound for Dia de los Muertos and other Mexican Celebrations. Fresh fruit, cheeses, cafes and bakeries surround a central parking area where a permanent Chapel rises and seasonal altars rotate below. If you’re courageous, look for roasted crickets or Tequila imbued with rattlesnake!

Eating fried crickets inside Mercado Hildalgo

One adventurous bite! I tried fried crickets – salty, crunchy and delicious!

2.El Taller, Baja Med Cocina – Not far from the Racetrack (now greyhounds rather than horses, and casino.) Their celebrated pizza innovations slice easily with the thin crust and fresh, original ingredients (escargot anyone?!) A bit trendy, the open kitchen and lengthy dining room is often packed.

The entrance to El Taller, Baja Med Cocina

The entrance to El Taller

3. Telefonica Gastro Park – Set up in a large lot at the base of the old Telephone building, this food truck/small business courtyard is packed with fresh, local and creative drinks and bites, many based on traditional recipes. Black Zapote tea anyone? Craft beers, long tables and hammocks make it a perfect hangout for a meal with friends. Save room for coffee and desserts!

Telefonica Gastro Park is the center of where to find the best casual food in Tijuana

 

Humo chef and friend inside Telefonica

Humo chef and friend inside Telefonica

4. Norte Brewing Company – Not everyone enters through the parking garage but it’s easier to manage than finding the Norte Brewing Companyentrance via a narrow passage set deep off Avenida Revolucion. The effort is worth it for the breezy space looks out over rooftops and the beer is stellar. Flavors rotate but inventive beers such as Foreign Club Robust Porter (Nitro y CO2,) Penthouse IPA and the thickly delicious, Sugar Daddy Chocolate Oatmeal Stout just might be on tap. If you’re a true craft beer afficianado, and very lucky, ask about Súpermash, which uses the nugget of the hop flower. The blooms come direct from Rancho Loza-La Casa Del Lupulo, precursors in the cultivation of organic hops in the valle de Guadalupe.

Norte brewing company is one of the best food in Tijuana spots for the casual drinker

5. Hua Huis, Restaurante de Mariscos – Now that the Tijuana airport bridge is open you can walk in and out of the country, airplane reservation in hand, simply enough. It’s a great convenience but you miss visiting Tijuana. Should you be heading in or out of the U.S. at the Otay Mesa border crossing and find yourself hungry, stop at the blue storefront of Hua Huis. The seafood is traditionally prepared as ceviche, grilled, or marinated, and the meats are tender as well. A small bar keeps drinks flowing too.

The modest storefront of Hua Huis Restaurane de Mariscos

The modest storefront of Hua Huis Restaurane de Mariscos

Hua Huis Ceviche Plates

Hua Huis Ceviche Plates

Here’s a brief video on where to find some of the best food in Tijuana:

Where to find the best food in Tijuana for casual diners:
  1. Mercado Hildalgo – The central market isn’t far from the CECUT cultural center in the Zona Rio.
  2. El Taller Baja Med Cocina: Full bar, sauces and salsas, and famous for their Pizza Baja Med
  3. Telefonica Gastro Park: Full courtyard surrounded by food trucks and temporary vendors. Dog-friendly and open to all ages.
  4. Norte Brewing Company: In Zona Centro off steps from Avenida Revolucion.
  5. Hua Huis, Restaurante de Mariscos: Seafood specialties served minutes from the Tijuana Airport

Thank you to our Binational Liason, Juan Arturo Saldaña Angulo with Tijuana Tourism and Convention Bureau. The trip sponsors, Tijuana Tourism and Convention Bureau and Rosarito Beach Hotel. And the transportation provided by Ticketon and Turismo Express.

I hope that you enjoyed this post and will share! Three images to pin:

best food in tijuana bites and brews

Best casual dining for the best food in Tijuana

Best food in Tijuana Telephonica Gastro Park

Riding a Segway – See San Francisco with the Electric Tour Company

Riding a Segway in San Francisco with the Electric Tour Company
Riding a Segway in San Francisco with the Electric Tour Company is fun for the family
Where would we be without wheels? They keep us spinning, moving, exploring. We sing children’s songs about them and Tina Turner immortalized Proud Mary’s big wheel. In San Francisco, the city is full of wheel configurations. Bus, trolley, BART, cable car, taxis, bicycles and ride sharing – but none is as fun as riding a Segway through the city streets.
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The morning was cool as we stepped from our Airbnb apartment to catch a bus. One ride took us entirely across town to within blocks of our destination, the Electric Tour Company in North Beach. The weekend was a first for my son, Josh, and me vacationing together as adults and he was more than happy to get up early for the chance to scurry around the city while riding a Segway.
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We easily found the Electric Company space, between buildings just steps from the Cannery shops and cafes. Before touching the machines, we were ushered into complete registration, shown a safety video and given helmets. Questions were asked and answered, then the coaching began. I was assigned the ‘Sedgequey’ (a common mispronounciation we were told!) and soon we were confidently starting, stopping, and spinning our machines.
Riding a Segway is simple with these easy controls

My ‘Sedquey!’

Within minutes of getting his Segway moving, Josh was racing in circles – well, racing is relative. The maximum speed is capped and each machine slows automatically as you reach that. Still, he had fun pushing the limits well before we took to the streets.
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Our guide, Aaron, handed out small transmitters and ear buds, connecting us to his guidance and narration for the tour. I was concerned about riding a Segway through city streets packed with pedestrians, buses and cars, but didn’t need to be. Brilliantly, Aaron positioned our group of 12 in formation as if we were the wheels of a bus. We were assigned a place, riding two by two in parallel lines. It made us easy to see and simple to follow. Soon North Beach was whizzing by and while stopped at a signal, Josh reached over for a grinning fist bump. Nice!
Lauren and her birthday crown while riding a Segway

Lauren and her birthday crown

Aaron kept us entertained with bit of history and puns. We cruised close to famous landmarks and took at break at Washington Park. Riding a Segway uphill was fun and downhill was easy too. There was no way our Segways could runaway with us.
Pausing to check in at Washington Park while riding our Segway

Pausing to check in at Washington Park while riding our Segway

Near the end of the tour we left the busy streets behind and headed out along the breakwater near Fort Mason. Only a few hikers were on the path, intrepid swimmers splashed nearby and the views were astounding. A historic schooner sat in the bay with the skyscrapers of downtown behind. Ferries and sailboats scooted past Alcatraz Island and the Golden Gate Bridge sat in full glory.
View of downtown San Francisco while riding a Segway
After time out for pictures, we headed back to the barn, as it were. What a great family adventure. My 20 year old had as much fun as mom. The youngest in the group, 14 yrs. old, had as much fun as his grandmother. Twenty five year old, Lauren, taking the tour as part of her birthday celebration, rode proudly – her helmet embellished with a tall, golden crown. She seemed to enjoy riding a Segway more than anyone and giggled street by street.
Riding a Segway bliss
Riding a Segway through San Francisco:
  • The Electric Tour Company has weekly specials and a detailed website. (Say hi to Aaron for me!)
  • Use public transportation to get around San Francisco. Save anxiety about meters, tickets and finding parking places. I used my cell phone GPS and Google Maps to find the best routes and buses. There are numbers to call at bus stops throughout the city.
  • If buses and trolleys aren’t your thing there are taxis everywhere plus…
  • The Uber and Lyft community is huge in San Francisco.
 Special thanks to the Electric Tour Company for hosting our ride. All opinions are my own.
weekend wanderlust April 2016

Road trip snack ideas – Tips for travelers

Road house stop full of snack ideas
Road houses are full of snack ideas - not all healthy!

Road houses are full of snack ideas – not all healthy!

Our road trip was packed full of adventure but unfortunately packed pounds on our waistlines too. We had three weeks to deliver the car to the East coast and started working our itinerary six months in advance. With all the planning however, we forgot about coordinating snack ideas.

Win a Hiking Backpack full of with snack ideas for your next trip (Details below)

My eating strategy whenever I fly has been whittled into a science, but a road trip with four adults in one car for days on end was in another league altogether. We took long hikes daily and expected that to burn calories but it wasn’t enough. Long, tedious hours of driving led to quick meals from limited roadside cafes and convenience stores. Too often that meant snack ideas of the high-carb, salt and sugar kind.

On the way to Mt. Rainier we stopped at the Viking Diner for burgers. Delicious and friendly, but low cal? Not.

Viking Cafe in Mossyrock was full of snack ideas

Locals in the Mossyrock Landmark, Viking Cafe

burger and fries

I’ll have fries with that.

When visiting cousins of course we couldn’t refuse to take their homemade sweets along.

Bazilian chocolate balls are snack ideas of the fattening kind

Rich, Brazilian Choco Balls!

My home breakfast schedule was demolished when the rest of the family needed a big meal before we hit the road. Too often hotel or road-side mornings started like this.

Waffles as road trip snack ideas

Resisting everything but temptation.

Fruit stands are a boon for summer travelers. Unfortunately, our rushed schedule kept us on freeways and off the smaller, country roads where fruit stands proliferate.

Road stand cherries are delicious snack ideas

Road stand cherries are delicious snack ideas

When you’ve endured long hours traveling in the back seat or driving, it’s too easy to ‘reward’ yourself with a big dinner or a few beers. When you do that over several weeks it’s no wonder vacation clothes get tighter and tighter!

Beer isn't on the list of great road trip snack ideas until you stop for driving for the day

Beer with dinner at Belton Chalet, outside Glacier National Park

The best road trip snack ideas include:
  • High protein, low salt and sugar, fruit and nut bars. Pick up a box before leaving home to stretch the travel budget.
  • Buy in bulk. Nuts and dates make satisfying snack ideas and travel well. Make your own mix and store in baggies or better yet, reusable containers.
  • Drink water often and limit the number of sweet, high fructose sodas and caffeine drinks. Avoid plastic bottles and refill your own.
  • Stop to eat well before you feel like you’re starving. Being overly hungry too often leads to impulsive and poor eating decisions.
  • Find grocery stores with salad bars and pick up fresh fruit at roadside stands.
  • Portion control. We were two boomers and two millennials driving together. Guess who ate most of the peanut butter pretzel crackers?! Take a few out of the bag and stick to that portion.

Golden Island Jerky are fine snack ideas

If only I had known about these Jerky packs for our trip. Most jerkies on the market are full of nitrates and preservatives. They’re overly sweetened with high fructose corn syrup as well. The Golden Island Jerky recipes are gluten-free and have no artificial ingredients. The unique flavors come from the founder’s Asian heritage and are available in resealable bags – perfect for travelers.

Golden Island Jerky snack ideas

Win a Hiking Backpack full of with snack ideas for your next trip

The prize includes:

  • Two packages of each variety of Golden Island Jerky ($65 value)
  • Four popular brand name, highly insulated Rambler 18 oz. bottles ($160 value)
  • $100 Visa gift card for gas
  • Hiking Backpack ($40)
Pack your bag and go! Enter here. Good luck!

This giveaway was facilitated by Golden Island Jerky. I was not compensated for this post but did receive free product samples, all opinions are my own.

How do you eat well on long road trips?

A pair of pins to share!

BBQ road trip snack ideas

Road trip snack ideas include happy hours

weekend wanderlust April 2016

How to connect with the real Puerto Princesa

The real Puerto Princesa includes this young boy in the Casa Linda courtyard

Puerto Princesa dancersA visitor seeing a new place for the first time has ‘Beginner’s Eyes.’ I was an absolute beginner when I stepped out of the airport and into the real Puerto Princesa. With dis-orienting speed, the tropical air filled with music and a group of dancers swirled and dipped into action in front of me. Pairs in ruffled costumes stepped and solo performers swished through routines. Costumes morphed and the music rose to final crescendo when they paused for applause. Then the dancers asked to take a picture together!** I’d just discovered the real Puerto Princesa – reflected in it’s people.

Many travelers miss Puerto Princesa entirely as they spin off to other parts of Palawan Island. The northern area is one of the most picturesque in the Philippines, but we didn’t venture to El Nido. We had been diving at Tubbatha Reef for days and wanted to see more of the local culture before returning home. Over four days we took several tours with the city as our base.

Where to find the real Puerto Princesa

While wandering on our own, we scooted around town in one of the ‘Tricycles’ that flow non-stop, 24 / 7. Often drivers would wait for us while we stopped at stores or restaurants and the service was very affordable. One driver helped us over several days. He waited for us while we had dinner, led us through the fish market, then took us shopping for medicine and souvenirs. I had a chance to talk with him about family and work, and cherished his kind openness.

Trike Driver in the real Puerto PrincescaTrim vans picked us up at our hotel for day tours. Filled with cooling AC, our guides would answer questions and regaled us with highlights of local history. Below are some of the spots we visited by van. Most of them were filled with tourists and well-rehearsed speeches but did offer glimpses of the real Puerto Princesa. We asked questions, made requests and listened, listened, listened.

Musicians on the Firefly Tour

Musicians on the Firefly Tour

Boardwalk and Firefly Tour

One evening tour took us across town to the city boardwalk. Families were strolling or riding bicycles. Food carts and small cafes filled one side; the bay sat darkening on the other.

Tricycle toddler on the Puerto Princesa boardwalk

Tricycle toddler on the Puerto Princesa boardwalk

Firefly tour boaters in Puerto Princesa BaySlim boats sat waiting for clients. Our group was motioned onto one vessel and instructed to put on life jackets. It was pitch black as we pulled up to a barge for a buffet dinner. The central table was piled with platters of seafood, stew, rice and salads. A small group of musicians filled the night with exotic rhythms. Soon after we slid into a dark mangrove forest where fireflies put on a nightly show. Floating into the shallows, lightning strikes sporadically illuminated the mountains above. Our guide’s banter was fashioned for the amusement of tourists but we played along and enjoyed meeting other visitors, most of them from Manila.

The Islands of Honda Bay

Tours of Honda Bay are fashioned with something for everyone on several of the small islands close to town. First we stopped to rent snorkels and masks. We were told it was a good idea to wear water shoes to avoid stepping on sharp corals or biting fish. The Pambato Bay park was disappointing with pens, murky water and few fish. Many boats went to the party island, Cowrie, with it’s water sports, bars, music and massages. We headed over to the quieter, Luli Island for lunch and swimming in the shallows.

Although it was late morning, I spoke at length with the bartender who introduced me to joys of Tanduay Rum. (A bottle came back with me to California.) He shared tales about the families who own the various islands. Finally, the excursion ended with a visit to Starfish Island where the roped off area sheltered dozens of unique starfish in the shallows.

Crowd scene on Luli Island

Playing around on Luli Island

Underground River and paddling through mangroves

The UNESCO site of the Underground River is the area’s biggest draw. It’s a 3 hour van ride from the heart of Puerto Princesa. The winding road led us to the Sabang wharf area where we joined scores of tourists while waiting for our turn to board small boats. The boats carry visitors to the Underground River launch area. It was a hot and steamy wait, but people-watching was fun and cold drinks were plentiful.

Boat guide to the Underground River UNESCO site

Our boat guide to the Underground river

The River tour was worth every melting minute. Once given a neck-piece audio device with narration in English, we stepped into a rowboat and were taken into the caves. Bats and Sparrows dove above our heads. Everyone was hushed, listening and watching intently. The undulating, limestone cave surfaces are unlike anything seen elsewhere. The fragile environment is being delicately developed with an eye to the future.

Mangrove river guide near Puerto Princesa

Our mangrove river guide

After a buffet lunch at the sleek Sheridan Beach Resort, we drove to the small encampment where row boats take visitors up a narrow, mangrove river. It was a stunning contrast to the crowds we’d endured earlier. The only visitors at the time, our guide and paddler led us into the wild world where we spied exotic birds, monitor lizards and sleeping snakes. I especially loved our guide launching into a song on the way back. She was shy and kindly sang of respect for the natural environment. As we disembarked, a group of Chinese tourists began filling the other boats. We were so lucky to have had the river to ourselves.

Pa'lawan tribesmen inside the Butterfly Garden, part of the real Puerto Princesa

Palaw’an tribesmen next door to the Butterfly Garden

Butterflies and Palaw’an Tribesmen

Our final city tour took us to several spots around the town. We walked through the private WW2 museum full of artifacts about the key role Philippine soldiers played in battles against the Japanese. A Crocodile Farm housed giants and babies, local animals and a huge souvenir shop. Driving up into the suburban hills, Mitra’s Ranch mansion was a pleasant spot to cool off for a few moments before stopping at the Butterfly Garden. There were few butterflies, but behind a wall in the back we stepped into another world.

Several natives from the Palaw’an tribe sat waiting for visitors. They shared their hunting prowess with blow dart demonstrations and, through an interpreter, we learned about their musical instruments. The tribesmen come down from the jungles to earn money to buy chickens, we were told. It was encouraged to help preserve wildlife, but I wonder who is preserving who! The outpost sold beautiful handcrafts and I think of those gracious, young men when I admire the trinkets we brought home.

Bakers Hill lookout platform

Bakers Hill lookout platform

Bakers Hill and Gardens

Bakers Hill and Gardens had a theme park ambiance with statues of cartoon characters, selfie spots, snack bars and climbing gyms for the little ones. We mimicked other visitors snapping up boxes of purple Ube in the bakery (More about the local foods in this earlier  post.) The small, creamy cakes are filled with Taro and traditionally made with ‘pork oil.’ We passed them around inside the van, trading more stories as we rode back to the hotel.

Plaza Cuartel and the market place

The morning we were to return to the US, we took a tricycle over to the WW2 memorial, Plaza Cuartel. The Spanish fort is gone but what does remain is a reverential space spotted with signs commemorating the Japanese massacre of American Soldiers. (Read more about that in this earlier post.)

Boy in Plaza Cuartel

A cutie in Plaza Cuartel

I played hide and seek with a young boy in the gardens. He was thrilled to get his picture taken and followed me across the street to the Cathedral where a funeral was taking place. His family were attending but his mischievous spirit was more interested in finding someone to play with!

Puerto Princesa is a bustling but modest town that is well worth exploring. Four days makes no one an expert but, while it’s easy to share pictures of the beauty and rich colors of the region, I found that the wonders of the real Puerto Princesa are found in its people.

**About that dance: We weren’t the only ones being welcomed to Puerto Princesa. There was a delegation of media from South Korea arriving at the same time!

A huge thank you to everyone who made our stay so special. I hope you visit Puerto Princesa one day and explore the Philippines. I look forward to returning one day. Disclosure: Our tours were hosted by iTravel Tours and Philippine Tourism offices in Los Angeles as well as in Puerto Princesa. As always though, all opinions are my own.

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weekend wanderlust April 2016

Nomads in the desert, American style

nomads in the desert, galeta sculptures
Jim and Tina Kurtz, nomads in the desert, and the Galleta Meadows Sculptures in Anza Borrego, California

Jim and Tina Kurtz and the Galleta Meadows Sculptures in Anza Borrego, California

Jim Kurtz and Tina Ellis are American nomads. It didn’t happen overnight. About six years ago they sold their long-term home in Encinitas, California to move to Oregon. The idea was to start a vineyard and the new house stood on acres outside of Ashland. Retired as a Financial Consultant, Jim began sourcing grapes from neighbors. Tina, an artist’s rep, began making her own mosaics, but the open road called. Within a few years they ditched it all to become nomads in the desert.
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Tamarask trees’ roots go deep to soak up water and Palo Verdes fill with yellow flowers in the Southern California desert spring. Ocotillo, with their long spikey branches, are frilled with red flowers at their tips then too. That’s what the desert was full of when I found Jim and Tina star-gazing outside of Borrego Hot Springs, a few hours east of San Diego. They were about to celebrate their first year as nomads in the desert: Dog, truck and fifth wheel. After exploring the U.S. for months, they’d set up camp for the winter at a plush RV Park. Their 5th wheel (a trailer home attached to the bed of a truck) is about 55 feet long. They chose it because, as Jim says, “There’s no feeling like the steering wheel is in the living room.”
Fifth Wheel set up for two nomads in the desert

Fifth Wheel set up

It’s hard to call their mobile home a trailer. It’s palatial with pop-out sides that create an open kitchen, dining and living room. The bedroom holds a king-sized bed and every nook has hidden storage. Jim installed heavy 12 Volt batteries at 150 lbs. each. As they criss-crossed the U.S. they could ‘boondock’ anyplace they chose for up to 10 days with plenty of power and a hundred gallons of water. Jim found out that ‘we don’t use that much.’
Inside the 5th Wheel for two nomads in the desert.

Inside the 5th Wheel for two nomads in the desert.

During the first few months on the road, Jim kept up his financial consulting practice but eventually enlisted the help of a firm associate and weaned away his clients. Now he’s completely retired. Tina keeps her creative and business talents honed, creating jewelry at the kitchen table. She builds tiny mosaics, using reflective glass in jewel tones, painstakingly gluing them into sterling silver settings. The pieces are irresistible, selling themselves as she wears them in town or by referral.
Nomads in the desert at the Road Runner Complex
At the Road Runner complex and RV Park they walk the perimeter with their dog, Ginger, and easily meet others doing the same. There’s a clubhouse where weekly wine tastings and BBQ’s dinners are set up, a pool, dog run, and doctor’s office where a nurse practitioner attends 3 to 4 days a week. On the other side of the Par 3 golf course, a few streets are filled with small houses. Most, built in the 1970’s, have three garages – two for cars and another for the golf cart. Purchasing a house in Road Runner complex runs about 19 thousand dollars. Jim quips, “You could pay for it with a credit card!” The demand is tempered by the $1,000 per month fee, paid year round for utilities, grounds upkeep, etc.
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In the trailer section the best spaces book three years in advance and run about $60 a night. Short term visitors pay $100. Jim and Tina found that the best spots are on the perimeter where you can back in with one side facing the greens. The center section, ‘pull throughs,’ are in the middle with less privacy.
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The complex owners enlist the help of volunteer camp-hosts, usually a couple, who work three, eight-hour days each week. They collect the garbage, help new arrivals back in, host weekly wine tastings and hot dog roasts. One couple, who had been long-term camp hosts, stopped returning. The wife had died and her husband said that he wasn’t coming back, but changed his mind after the owners invited him to return with free rent. He’s been there ever since. These are good people who share a real sense of community.
Ocotillo Restaurant in Borrego Hot Springs

Ocotillo Restaurant in Borrego Hot Springs

Seasonal changes
Spring was a comfy time to visit, however, summer in Borrego Springs means scorching heat. Jim says, “105 degrees isn’t a big deal but 110 to 115? That’s toasty.” For residents the summertime strategy is to go out before 10 am or after 2 pm. For others it means spending the hottest months of the year elsewhere. Good planning is important anytime Jim and Tina pack up and take to the road with their 5th Wheel. Routes from coast to desert mean getting over the mountains and north of the town of Julian, on Highway 79, there’s a graceful rise that’s relatively easy to drive. On twisting roads the trailer tends to swing over the middle line. While Tina likes the challenge, they carefully plan their routes.
Two other nomads in the desert, Galeta sculptures in Anza

Two other nomads in the desert, Galleta Meadows sculptures in Anza Borrego

This summer Jim and Tina are no longer nomads in the desert. They’ve taken to the foothills of the Canadian Rockies until the fall weather drives them back south.
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  weekend wanderlust April 2016

Filipino Foods – Tasty times in Puerto Princesa, Palawan

Filipino foods, Palawan style, on a mural at Haim Inatu in Puerto Princesa
Filipino foods overflow tables in the Puerto Princesa market
Don’t miss these Filipino Foods in Puerto Princesa
A single Cashew ripens bizarrely poised above an ‘apple’ and yet in a shadowy market corridor in Puerto Princesa, tables were strewn with bags full of the local harvest. The work it takes to harvest them is boggling! But there they were – roasted, fried, raw or broken into chunks of sugary brittle. Seeing my interest, suddenly small bags were ripped open and samples offered. These cashews or ‘Kasoy’ had a milky taste due to how they are cooked that’s worlds apart from what my stateside big box store offers. They were fully ripened and harvested in the south of Palawan Island and dangerously inexpensive. Somehow I managed to restrain my snacking and carry several bags back to California. It was my introduction to the tasty treats of Filipino foods in Puerto Princesa.
Cashews are some of the Filipino foods to try in Puerto Princesa

Bags of cashews in the Puerto Princesa marketplace

There are so many things to see and do in the area and dozens of tours ready to guide visitors. We didn’t find a food tour and there should be! Put your own together with these suggestions of our favorite places and plates in Puerto Princesa. Most were recommended by friends, hotel staff and a few Yelp and Trip Advisor reviews. Thanks to all the help, we discovered a world of exciting eats beyond the expected Adobo (the Filipino national dish) and ubiquitous steamed fish.
Fish market for Filipino foods in Puerto Princesa
A friend had taken us to the old Puerto Princesa marketplace to see the local fish, the seaweed and fruit. Seafood tumbled into baskets, fish, eel, and crustaceans were arranged on cement stands raised to allow juices to flow into gutters. It demanded vigilant side-stepping for the uninitiated. Red leafy seaweed and small clutches of sea grapes were sorted into baskets. Cleavers bore down on Tuna torsos, shook through red crab and pressed fat bellies into fillets. I didn’t know where to look first, everything was happening at once and the show goes on almost daily.
Filipno foods include small, sweet bananasDon’t miss the bananas
After all the snacks en route and airplane meals, I wasn’t going to eat until noon on our first day in Puerto Princesa but came to the breakfast table with a few small bananas that we’d picked up from a sidewalk stand. The petite bananas were mottled with mushy tips but sweet and firm inside. Perfectly ripe and sliced onto my banana pancake they made syrup redundant.
Kalui Garden statues in Puerrto Princesa restaurant

Kalui Garden statues

Entree with sea grapes in Kalui, great Filipino foods

Shrimp with sea grapes in Kalui

Kalui
We found our way into the Kalui Restaurant for lunch. My senses were reeling from the moment we stepped in from the heat and traffic along Rizal Road. Local artwork covered walls, courtyards and the rear gallery but more than that, the owners have a flair for design. Inlaid stones formed arches and flowed over walls. Dancing ladies, shell chimes, puka shell lanterns adorned other areas. Collections of dishes, globes and even a pattern of Aunt Jemima magnets adorned other surfaces.
A glimpse inside Kalui, Puerto Princesa

Inside Kalui, Puerto Princesa

Before entering we were asked to remove our shoes and placed them in one of several baskets by the door. At our table we had a garden on one side and watched a huge family feast on the other. The menu was in Filipino and English. Quickly we ordered the local craft beer, Palaweno Brewery Honey Nut Ale, which was perfect to cool a tropical afternoon. The set meal of the day was inexpensive but included several courses. Starting with a clear broth our appetites were kindled with ginger, lemongrass and light fish flavors. Each course was full of color and flavor. We loved the space and food so much that on our last day in town we returned for more fruit and sashimi.
Entrance to La Terrasse full of tasty Filipino foods in Puerto Princesa
 La Terrasse
You might think that we were finished eating for the day but after working in an internet cafe for hours and wandering downtown we caught a tricycle to the highly recommended, La Terrasse. I’d spotted the entrance on our way in from the airport but after dark it was a bit harder to find. Along the busy road one lane morphed into two or three and back again, but finally we spotted the sign and pulled up in front. The menu is French inspired but light, featuring fresh, organic and sustainably sourced ingredients. Significantly absent were prawns and lobster – the owners claim that they’re impossible to trace to responsible harvest practices.
La Terrasse cocktails underway in Puerto Princesa

La Terrasse cocktails underway

The space was open to the elements, a theme throughout the area, but with stark Euro flair. Walls were washed in deep red. The long, bright bar sat beneath a huge TV monitor and we watched a nature documentary unwind while waiting for our dinner. Our appetizer, housemade breads sticks and a small bowl of fresh pesto, was served with a pitcher of Mojito’s before the soup arrived. It was a pale squash, light and missing the thick cream so often found in French cooking. A small tureen of Spinach Gratinee came next. Dave’s pork and chicken adobo, the national dish, was a pyramid of tasty rice topped with spicy, crispy pork and succulent chicken. Chilled, filtered water came in a bottle. No plastic bottles here! It was a light, satisfying dinner. A lovely conclusion to our first day in the Philippines.
The entrance to Badjao home of Filipino foods in Puerto Princesa

The entrance to Badjao

The fish platter served in Badjao

The fish platter served in Badjao

Badjao Seafood Restaurant
A British Duke once ate at Badjao, which made the restaurant famous, but the seaside setting with the large, open dining room is enough to set it apart from other places in town. It’s a special occasion spot with exceptional service. In the tall, peaked dining room, small birds flitted into chandeliers hung with wafting strands of flowers. Set on stilts between bay and Mangrove forest it was the perfect place to watch the day fade. The bar menu offered wines, tropical cocktails and local beers. Seafood entrees and platters filled the dinner listings. We enjoyed our meal but, while the portions were large, they felt tame and uninspired. I’d recommend Badjao for the drinks, the experience of walking the covered bamboo entryway and the ambiance. Make sure your tricycle driver waits for you. The location is far from town.
Ready for our firefly tour in Puerto Princesa
A floating restaurant and fireflies
The chance to see fireflies set us off on an evening tour to the Puerto Princesa boardwalk. A van picked us up at our hotel and within twenty minutes we were stepping onto a pontoon boat with about a dozen other visitors. It was getting dark and across the wide bay lightning flashed along mountaintops. Out into the darkening night we set, passing silent ships but pulled up to a bright platform where dinner waited, buffet style. A trio of musicians stirred the darkness with drums and digeridoo rhythms. The meal was a bit rushed, but full of traditional and fresh dishes. We could eat as much as we wanted but paid extra if we wanted to drink anything but water. Soon we were invited to return to the boat to continue onto the river where fireflies make nightly appearances. It was a sweet excursion, pretty touristy, but worth the effort.
The bar in Kinabuch's

The bar in Kinabuch’s

Crocodile Sisig in Kinabuch

Crocodile Sisig in Kinabuch

Kinabuch
Everyone mentioned Kinabuch as a must-do restaurant in Puerto Princesa. The beer garden restaurant is set back from the road beyond a small parking lot. In fact we’d walked by several times before stopping in. Kinabuch is laid out like a sports bar with big TV screens scattered through several dining areas and bars. There was one draft pull at the largest bar and I imagine it pours San Miguel, the ubiquitous Philippine ale. As our dinner came, the Blue Marlin steak looked and tasted more like Swordfish. The fresh spring roll came as a thick crepe wrapped around vegetables. It was decent but heavy and not as expected. The beer came late and we had finished our other dishes before asking when our Crocodile Sisig was coming. When it was finally served, the Crocodile Sisig was hot but a bland, ground meat dish. All the portions were huge and if you ask for a platter of rice, you’re served a shovelful. I can see why the place is popular. The music is loud, the prices are good, portions large and they have big screens showing sports games. It would be fun for a night on the town with family and friends.
Haim mural of wood worms a Filipino food

The traditional way to eat wood worms!

Haim Chicken
We’d been looking for a spot to try woodworms, the mollusk harvested from within mangrove roots. Finally we ventured into Haim Chicken which is close to the airport and a short ride from our hotel. Tables were arranged in raised bamboo huts We were happy to hear that Tamilok, wood worms, were available and soon Christian, one of the waitstaff was standing next to our table to make sure we knew how to eat them. He showed us how to lift the long mollusks and dip them into vinegar and garlic sauce before opening wide to swallow the wet creatures. It wasn’t as creepy as you might imagine! They had been thoroughly cleaned and tasted like oysters. If we chewed too much a darker flavor emerged, probably due to their diet of mangrove wood. It was a once in a lifetime taste-test that I’m glad I tried but probably won’t repeat.
Wood Worms, Tamilok, one of the traditional Filipino foods found in Puerto Princesa

The Wood Worm dish

Another special dish at Haim Inatu - Chicken Butts!

Another special dish at Haim Inatu – Chicken Butts!

The adventure didn’t stop there as Dave ordered Chicken Butts. I don’t care for chicken skin or fried foods that much but these were crunchy, moist inside and well seasoned. Everything else that we ate at Haim was flavorful, well cooked and served with care. The beer was cold, service attentive and prices moderate. I’d stop by again to try more of the menu.

Coffee and Internet at iToys in Puerto Princesa
iToys Specialty Coffee Haus
For anyone looking for decent WiFi and espresso drinks, I think iToys would be hard to beat. The small dining room is set with tables perfect for laptops and the patio, shaded by large trees, is a gracious spot to while away a few hours. Their mango smoothies are reputed to be best in the area.
The Bakers Hill viewing platform above Puerto Princesa

Bakers Hill viewing platform

Hopia Ube traditional sweet from Banker's Hill in Puerto Princesa

Hopia Ube traditional sweet from Banker’s Hill in Puerto Princesa

Bakers Hill

It’s a tourist stop full of photo opportunities and selfie spots but the bakery is what made the hill a destination. The most popular items in the small shop are boxes of purple, bean-stuffed pastries called Hopia Ube.They’re made with ‘pork oil’ (lard) or a newer version with vegetable oil. The hill is covered with statues dotting the lush gardens including giant snakes and tigers, Snow White and entourage, and other variations on Disney characters. A winding viewing platform near the back of the property is worth climbing for views of the city. We bought a box of the Ube because everyone else was and broke it open in the van. So glad we did and yes, it was the ‘pork oil’ version.

Enjoying this post? check out more about our adventures in Puerto Princesca.

Flipino foods forever!

We wandered the city for four days and loved exploring the Filipino foods of Palawan. I hope that you’ll stop in Puerto Princesa to explore as we did and not simply pass through on the way to other adventures on the island.

Disclosure: The Firefly tour dinner and the stop at Baker’s Hill were provided through the Philippines Tourism office in Los Angeles and coordinated with the Puerto Princesa Tourism team. Our final itinerary and van tours were provided by ITravel Tours, Events and Consultancy.

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weekend wanderlust April 2016

 

 

 

 

Dangerous beauty – Yellowstone Park safety tips

Yellowstone Park holds many natural wonders, like Old Faithful
Old Faithful geyser path in Yellowstone Park
The National Parks are wild and extraordinary places to experience. In ever popular Yellowstone Park, the beauty and wonder can also be dangerous if you and loved ones aren’t careful.
Heart-breakingly, a young man died horribly after falling into a hot spring in Yellowstone recently. It takes some doing to fall into those lethal Yellowstone Park pools. Raised trails cross caldera grounds. Tourists get close enough to feel the heat and peer into the pools safely from raised boardwalks. Sulfurous fumes wash through the air. There’s no mistaking that you’re in a foreign and challenging landscape. The beauty is hypnotic but can be deadly if you don’t pay attention.
Thermal pool beauty in Yellowstone Park.

Deceptively calm thermal pool beauty in Yellowstone Park.

Many have walked off marked paths, decided to strike out alone and unprepared, felt the boondoggle was worthwhile. Why Colin Scott and his sister decided to walk off the path into an isolated area is an open question. The paths are marked. Signs clearly state ‘Danger. No Trespassing.’ Only a sheer crust of earth sits above the acidic bubbling waters below but it looks deceptively solid. Colin fell in and disappeared in a boiling, acidic pond. His sister will live to replay those shocking moments for the rest of her life.
Enter at your own risk sign in Yellowstone Park
I visited eight National Parks over three weeks and watched incredulously while several visitors left safe barriers in an effort to get pictures. Along the Crater Lake rim trail I witnessed a Japanese family climb over a fence and onto crumbling gravel above a steep ravine. Loose rock was their only footing, the only thing between them and sure death if they had slid into the crevices below. I couldn’t look until they returned safely to the trail. There was a sign posted about the danger a few feet from where they posed.
Uncle Tom's trail stair down to viewing Lower Yellowstone Park Falls

Uncle Tom’s trail stair down to viewing Lower Yellowstone Park Falls

Since 2013 there have been more than thirty-six deaths from falling in Yellowstone Park! Most have been falls into canyons. At Uncle Tom’s Trail it would be relatively easy to plunge from the 328 step stairway. The metal stairs twist down almost vertically for several hundred feet. Admittedly the view of the Lower Yellowstone Falls through rainbow mists and up into the rushing waters is worth the challenge but the ascent has its risks as well. Everyone climbs up from the scaffold with their hearts pounding from heat and exhaustion.

Death in Yellowstone Park Book about the dangerous beautyAccidents and foolhardiness in the first National Park
On the drive to Yellowstone from California I got acquainted with Lee H. Whittlesey’s hefty book, Death In Yellowstone. The subhead speaks volumes: Accidents and foolhardiness in the first National Park. It’s painstakingly researched. Twenty five chapters are crammed with injuries, deaths and rescue attempts. The grizzliest jobs are recovering the fallen, the parts, and piecing together what happened instance by instance. I read enough to get the message.
Buffalo in Yellowstone Park

Friend or foe? Our National Mammal sizes visitors up.

The park has been a killer from its creation. Several craftsmen fell from scaffolding while building roads and lodges. In the 1920’s a superintendent loaded his monthly report with cases of people being burned in the face as they looked down into the cone of Old Faithful. Today there’s a wide perimeter around the geyser with benches and explosion times posted near. Still distracted parents have lost children in nearby pools.
Too close to Moose in Yellowstone Park
Too close for comfort
Drawing close to wild animals is constant temptation in Yellowstone Park. Staying the recommended minimum of 100 yards from bears and wolves sounds excessive but they can charge without warning and you may need room to take evasive actions. As recently as 2015 bear attacks have led to disappearances and deaths. Again warnings and precautions are posted, illustrated in brochures and shown in movies inside the various visitor centers inside the park.
The NPS.Gov site reminds visitors that:
  • All of Yellowstone Park is bear country
  • If you go hiking, travel in groups of 3 or more.
  • Make noise while hiking. A surprised bear can be a dangerous animal.
  • Bear Spray works. Carry it where it can be accessed easily and quickly.

Here’s a short video of my close encounter with wildlife in Yellowstone Park.

For all the warnings, people still draw close to Bison and Elk in an effort to get a good picture. Most of the beasts seem nonplussed by crowds or posers drawing near, but again there’s no knowing if or when they might charge. Keeping something between you and a thousand pound wild animal is always a good thing!
Close encounter of the wild kind
In Yellowstone Park I had a close roadside encounter because I wasn’t paying attention. On our drive through the park we discovered that if you see a group of cars pulled over with no man-made attractions nearby, it’s a safe bet there are wild animals near the road. In one instance we stopped near a half dozen cars parked close to a lush hillside. About 50 feet away, a massive bull Elk was posing in the grass, his rack full and broad above a proud forehead. Camera out, I stepped next to a stand of trees lining the road. While I was there focusing, several other males sauntered over the hill just out of my peripheral vision. It wasn’t until I put down the camera that I noticed how close one massive male had come to me. I side-stepped to a narrow tree as the moose lowered his head to nuzzle tufted greens. There were less than eight feet between us! A few snaps later I slowly, steadily, backed away towards the waiting car, no worse for my clueless encounter.
Ambivalence or Ignorance?
In his book, Forever Wild, Phillip Terrie writes about our responses to wilderness. He calls it ambivalence, a state of having mixed feelings or contradictory ideas about a place or someone.  The author states:
We react to wilderness as “an endlessly interesting mixture of sympathy and fear, of love and hostility, of the impulse to embrace and the equally powerful urge to flee.”
An entire chapter of the Death in Yellowstone book explores this fatal attraction.
Life, urban or wild, is full of risk. With luck we learn from our close encounters with danger. Stay safe and enjoy Yellowstone Park. You’ll live to tell the stories and share pictures for years to come.
If you go to Yellowstone Park:
  • Check out my post about National Park Passes and free days.
  • Be sure to review the National Park Service website.
  • Brace for crowds during peak months and the Park Centennial (2016.)
  • Start reserving your lodging months in advance.
  • Pack for hot days and chilly nights during spring and summer.
  • Stay alert. Take signage seriously. Have fun!

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Yellowstone park dangerous beauty pin.Visit Yellowstone Park Pin 2

Diving Tubbatha Reef – UNESCO World Heritage Site

UNESCO World Heritage site, Tubbatha Reef
Lighthouse on the abandoned atoll in the UNESCO World Heritage Site, Tubbatha.

Dawn and the lighthouse in the UNESCO World Heritage Site, Tubbatha Reef.

The sky and sea met in a wash of peach and gilded light. Our small live-aboard ship bobbed and on the ocean’s surface a series of strange lines, rippled and in parallel, appeared. Within  moments they sank from sight. It was a puzzle until a flying fish emerged, barely jetting above the water. Within moments it disappeared, leaving that odd trail and then all was still again. If there wasn’t a witness I would have thought I was imagining things. Tubbatha Reef, the UNESCO World Heritage Site, was like that – full of surprises.
Whale shark in Tubbatha - mottled with parasites.

Whale shark in Tubbatha – mottled with parasites. Photo: Dave Rudie

Superlatives don’t do justice to all that’s above and below the surface of the UNESCO World Heritage site in the middle of the Philippines’ Sula Sea. Whale sharks slip past steep underwater ridges. Manta Rays lift up from the depths to cleaning stations They pause to drift as small fish dart and peck, removing tiny creatures attached to their skin. Rushing ribbons of Jacks, Napoleon Wrasse and Barracuda race up from the deep and disappear. My small dive collective came upon a nurse shark sleeping in a crevice, its tail squeezed into the narrow space, nose to an unseen wall. Other sharks floated past – black tip, reef and white. Curious, they rarely followed us, always gliding back to their wanderings.
turtle spied in the UNESCO World Heritage site, Tubbatha Reef

Turtle surfaces for a few moments.

Turtle in the UNESCO World Heritage site, Tubbatha

Photo: Dave Rudie

From the deck I watched a turtle, or was it two, fins splayed into the air, the shell humping up and then down. A face lifted to the sunlight and I wondered, “Why?” We saw many resting below, some tearing into coral, searching for tasty sponges before they’d move up the water column to breathe. What was this one looking at on the surface? Was it curious about our boat’s motor vibrating into the fathoms? Was it a mating dance?
Owner of the Palau Sport, David Choy, brings the boat to Sula for a few months each year.

Owner of the Palau Sport, David Choy, brings the boat to Sula for a few months each year.

A Philippine National Marine Park, Tubbataha Reef sits deep inside the Sula Sea, more than ninety miles from port in Puerto Princesa. The shallow atoll islands could be mistaken for small sand bars. They are merely the tip of an intertwining reef system that the UNESCO World Heritage Association found rare enough to add to its recognized natural sites. It’s now protected from fishing by Philippine rangers as well. One afternoon we stopped to meet them, to buy souvenirs and tour their remote outpost.
Walking from the chaser boat to the Ranger Station

Walking from the chaser boat to the Ranger Station

An abandoned lighthouse sits on another part of the atoll. It still works but is home to sea birds who swirl through the flaking arches and the low scrub trees. Lighthouse or no, there have been many wrecks. Their names remained on several of our dive spots but most have fallen apart or storms have pushed them into the deep sea trenches.
A clutch of giant sponges on the sea wall.

A clutch of giant sponges on the sea wall. Photo: Dave Rudie

The reef is the meeting place of deep, cold water and tropical warm currents that make it vibrate with life. Soft and hard corals proliferate. Huge fans reach out from walls. Mammoth, squatting, ridged sponges rise up in sizes a potter could only dream of. Fish peer from ledges of plate corals. They tempt divers near, turn on their sides and slip into slivers of space unscathed to surface once the coast is clear.
Nemo look alikes in the UNESCO World Heritage site, Tubbatha Reef
In the late afternoon things slow down. Knotted Chrinoids unfurl to capture the currents and walk, yes walk, towards new hunting grounds the night deepens. Eels abandon their solitude and slither along the sandy shoals. Octopus wander. Worms the length of yardsticks dig through the sand. Tiny drifters and jelly fish float.
Manta Ray in the UNESCO World Heritage site, Tubbatha

Manta Ray. Photo: Dave Rudie

Nothing is wasted in the sea. It’s all eat or be eaten. I’ve seen a clutch of fish tear into the carcass of one of their own. For my species it seems savage but there is an economy at work that will far outlast our survival on the surface. For now, I’m am overjoyed to float by, witnessing the wild things who ignore my passing.
Sea Cucumber feeding

Sea Cucumber feeding

Two experiences stand out from diving the Tubbatha World Heritage site. At one spot I saw a sea cucumber arched up like a crawling dinosaur. I thought they only hunted at night but this one was hungry. It slid up and over a branch of coral. There was no telling what drew the mouth open but I released my buoyant air to settle in close and watch. The maw startled me as a handful of black fingers emerged. At the end of each, flower shaped suckers wrapped around the plant. The cucumber kept moving, each finger pulling forward, sucking and releasing to reach again. It was hypnotic but the current was tugging and I needed to keep up with the group.
Prepping gear on the Palau kSport dive boat

Prepping gear on the dive boat

On the last dive of our last day I kept reminding myself to breathe slow and calmly. The night before, while going over shooting strategies, award-winning underwater photographer and author, Bob Yin, mentioned how our heartbeats thrump through the water and can alarm the fish. When a diver is excited, the fish know it and fear that they’re being hunted!

striped fish in the UNESCO World Heritage site, Tubbatha

In a shallow coral bed I spotted a small school. They weren’t feeding but bobbing around a small coral pinnacle. Very slowly I ventured ever closer until I was in the midst of them. My breath slowed to a meditative rhythm as I floated into the bunch. They hardly seemed to notice. Silently I took pictures then added a small burst of oxygen to my BC vest to float up. So very strange and beautiful – The best of diving the Tubbatha World Heritage site is like that.
Two divers, Dave Rudie, Elaine Masters in the waters of Tubbatha Reef

Photographer, dive and travel buddy, Dave Rudie and author, Elaine

 

Map of dive sites inside the dive lounge at Tubbatha Reef

Map of dive sites and features

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  –weekend wanderlust April 2016

Puerto Princesa WWII War Museum – Our shared history

Plaza Cuertel in Puerto Princesa, the Philippines
Arch in Plaza Cuartel not far from the war museum

Arch in Plaza Cuartel not far from the war museum

 Visiting the war museum and plaza memorial

“History ought never to be confused with nostalgia. It’s written not to revere the dead, but to inspire the living.”

~ Simon Schama, A History of Britain.

 

 

War is cruel yet it bears remembering and the Filipinos haven’t forgotten those who fought for freedom. I didn’t expect to learn about my country’s history on the Philippine island of Palawan but there it was, first stop on our City Tour itinerary – a visit to the Special Battalion World War II Memorial Museum. I had heard of the book, Ghost Soldier, and the 2005 movie, The Great Raid. Not being a military history buff, I wouldn’t have gone out of my way to see the museum, but it was a touching conclusion to the visit. I left Puerto Princesa glad to have seen the war museum, for our countries shared past, and hopeful for our future.
Plaque in the war museum

Plaque in the war museum

 Inside the private war museum inaugurated by the family of local hero, Dr. Higinio Mendoza Sr., our English-speaking guide took us room-by-room, sharing quick details on the role that Puerto Princesa and the Philippines had played in World War II. American soldiers fought and died side by side with more than 1,000 Filipinos resistance fighters to secure the Philippines independence. I stood in the room given to the U.S. soldiers who served there, those who died in a war-camp massacre and death march that was unspeakably cruel. One wall of the museum held pictures of nearly a half dozen American soldiers who chose to stay in the Philippines, marrying into Filipino families. Their children remain and several serve in government offices.
Remembering the massacre near the war museum in Puerto Princesa
There were artifacts from all the players, recreations of uniforms and collections of arms. A picture of  triumphant statue was dedicated by one of the survivors and later we saw the statue itself when we ventured across town to the remnants of the Spanish fort at Plaza Cuartel.
Fountain Plaza Puerto Princesa, war museum
An archway and broken wall surrounded the inner, open courtyard with a clear view to the harbor. As I entered, a cooling breeze offered unexpected relief from the moist, morning heat. Fountains and sparse trees punctuated the space. A pair of young boys ran about and posed for pictures. Standing displays were set in the center and we read, moving silently from one to the next. Over 150 American soldiers were burned to death in that space. Many more, including hundreds of Filipino soldiers, died near Manila in the Bataan death march. Soldiers fought in Palawan, were wounded and lived on to tell the stories of the fight to secure freedom and a strategic stronghold for the Allies.
Statue commemorating those massacred in Puerto Princesa

Statue remembering those massacred in Puerto Princesa

Boy in Plaza near the war museum, Puerto Princesa
 A sense of heartfelt amazement filtered into the day, the last of our visit in the Philippines. Our two countries remain bound in friendship and mutual concerns over current affairs in the region that again threaten decades of peace. I hope that we’ve learned from the past and can hold onto our national freedoms and that the world will find a way to coexistence without conflict. It seems a wistful, naive notion.
“Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to repeat it.”
~ George Santayana, The Life of Reason, 1905.
Over a century later Santayana’s message remains more true than ever. I’m grateful to our Filipino hosts for the visit to the war museum; for reminding me of our shared history and concerns for the future.
If you go:

Many thanks to Philippines Tourism and to the Puerto Princesca Tourism office for all their assistance in planning this trip and the complementary tours. 

weekend wanderlust April 2016

When travel plans don’t work – Cruise holidays cancelled

Fathom Adonia at dock for cruise holidays
Cruise holidays cancellation for the Fathom launch
   The ship stood proud and beautiful but guests were never allowed near. Their cruise holidays were about to be cancelled. I was cleared for boarding when the first delay was announced. I knew it was a first trip when I signed on and the delay had me thinking, “No problem, things happen.” I kept my eye on the opportunity to travel for good and participate in volunteer projects at our destination in the Dominican Republic, as well as to savor the culture.
   The crowd of nearly 400 passengers was composed of other savvy travelers – mostly travel media and agents. We experienced wanderers pivot relatively easily, especially when Fathom quickly offered local tours of the Everglades and Miami sites during our wait. The service was comforting. No one gave the delay much thought.
Fathom Adonia at dock for cruise holidays

Fathom Adonia at dock in Miami

   It wasn’t until we returned that the tone shifted. Another delay was announced. Fathom and it’s ample, professional staff helped guests into hotels, offered dinner and drinks while we waited for news. Regular updates came in the following morning at 9, at 11 and finally at 1 pm. We were ultimately told that the ship was not allowed to leave port and accommodations would be made to cover our expenses to return home. While disappointment ran high, no one was more concerned than the Fathom leadership who stayed accessible and worked hard to allay fears diplomatically. I’ve never seen executives so concerned and close to tears.
   The plans started years ago, when Celebrity Cruise Line developed a series of volunteerism trips for the Dominican Republic and Cuba. A smaller ship (capacity about 700) was sourced from P&O Cruises in Europe. The Adonia sailed across the Atlantic from the UK after fifteen years of experience in European waters. It was sent to dry dock for retrofitting before the inaugural Fathom cruise to the Dominican Republic.
   Setting up volunteer projects with local impact for good takes time. In the Dominican Republic relationships were built with local groups. Infrastructure was built to accommodate guests and ground transport; dining and recreational plans were made. All was in ready for the launch – or so it seemed.
Learning about the cruise holidays delay

Learning about the delay.

What happened to our cruise holidays?
   The US is different than Europe in it’s sailing regulations. While the Adonia is a proven, sea-worthy ship, Coast Guard inspections found several failures. Worst discovered during routine inspections was a “problem with numerous sliding fire screen doors that are inoperable,” according to the U.S. Coast Guard in Miami. It grounded the cruise.
   Quickly passengers dispersed to alternative travels. More than one agent hopped on another cruise. I met a couple who decided it was a perfect time for a road trip to Savannah. A group of bloggers pivoted to South American to find stories in Columbia. Several bloggers were invited to an alternative volunteer travel project with a different company. It was too little, too late and never materialized.
   I scrambled to reschedule flights and luckily continued on to cover a different story on the west coast. Weeks of preparation, packing, research and anticipation were scrapped. Disappointing? Big time, but I believe that while ultimate responsibility lies with Fathom, they worked to do the right thing and stepped up repeatedly to make sure people were taken care of. Fathom’s canceled cruise left me exhausted but it’s not the first time that my travel plans haven’t worked out. When plans have to change they sometimes change for the better. I ended up with my family and with new stories.
Therapy vacation on cruise holidays

Savvy travelers keep their sense of humor!

   Luckily I was traveling solo. Other passengers had to endure deeper hardships, re-scheduling family outings, school breaks, and did as well as possible on short notice. We were experienced travelers. Fathom kept us in the loop. They held fast to the planned departure and only shifted when it was impossible to continue. It was a hardship all around.
   Repairs are underway to quickly meet inspection requirements. I imagine that when the Adonia launches it will be the safest, most up-to-date ship in the Caribbean. It will just launch later than expected. The beautiful Adonia will sail soon with another boatload of passengers even more excited about their cruise holiday, to step aboard and travel deep for good.
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A California beach adventure in Oceanside

A California beach adventure begins at the Oceanside Pier

A California beach adventure begins at the Oceanside Pier

It doesn’t get much sweeter than this; sun most days of the year, easy to get to and affordable. Oceanside always surprises me. It’s one California beach city that is too often overlooked, but that’s changing.

Tom Cruise's house featured in the movie, Top Gun.

Tom Cruise’s house featured in the movie, Top Gun.

Perched between the military base, Camp Pendelton, and San Diego proper, it’s often just a blip on the GPS for drivers going north or south, but they’re missing out. I love spending a day or two walking downtown, visiting the beach, the museums and discovering new restaurants and happy hours. The harbor area is worth exploring too.

Oceanside heart balloon at the Farmers Market

The city rolls out its best for events year round. A giant heart balloon is seen around town during Valentine’s week. There are multiple charity runs and organized bike rides. Cultural events abound from the Oceanside museum, the Surf museum, the Starlight theater and galleries. The craft brew and gastropub scenes are percolating. Some great sushi and seafood can be found from white tablecloth establishments to casual pizza, health foods and taco stands.

California beach adventure includes a cup or bottle of Kombucha at Living Tea.

Josh Weigel and his draft Kombucha at Living Tea.

Hello Betty restaurant is a fun stop for a California beach adventure

Hello Betty has seating indoor, rooftop or along the sidewalk.

California beach adventure has to include a walk on the pier.

A view from the pier.

Oceanside1

The California Surf Museum, local murals and the Oceanside Art Museum.

My favorite is the beach. The pier is long and worth a stroll whether it’s stormy or the sky is bright. Along the waterfront quaint bungalows line the sea wall. The wide open sand makes dipping into the water a must. If you love surfing or boogie boarding, the waves will make you delirious.

Oceanside Springhill Marriott hotel is poised for a perfect California beach adventure

Views from the Springhill Marriott Hotel in Oceanside

Where to stay for your California beach adventure in Oceanside?

There are several BnB’s in the area and a number of hotels. The fresh, Springhill Suites Marriott, just a block from the water, is one choice. The view from their roof top pool is stunning.

Masters Kitchen and Cocktail reflects the California beach vibe.

Photo courtesy of Masters Kitchen and Cocktail

Where to eat in Oceanside:
  • Wrench and Rodent Seabasstropub is a culinary adventure you’ll savor long after the plate’s clean. Award-winning, Chef Davin Waite features local seafood, produce, and chef-picked ingredients.
  • Zig Zag Pizza Pie lets you pick your ingredients, your drinks out of the cooler and chops salads just steps from the Oceanside pier.
  • Hello Betty Fish House has a California beach theme and fresh eats inside or out.
  • Swami’s on Mission Avenue is one of the first healthy eating cafes in San Diego
  • 333 Pacific is a Cohn family restaurant with a bit more polish than most in the pier neighborhood. Stylish cocktails and sumptuous fare.
  • Masters Kitchen and Cocktail is a few blocks from downtown on South Coast Highway. It’s one of many innovative brew pubs / casual dining spots in the area. (Of course I had to include my namesake!)
  • Living Tea Brewing Company serves fresh, organic Kombucha in their storefront at 302 Wisconsin Avenue. It’s also available bottled around San Diego.
The most recent mural outside of Wrench and Rodent on South Pacific Highway near Cassidy.

The most recent mural outside of Wrench and Rodent on South Pacific Highway.

Getting to your California beach adventure in Oceanside:

Drive: The beach is just west of the Interstate 5 freeway and Pacific Coast Highway off Mission Boulevard.

Ride: The Amtrak station is close to downtown and the beach. There’s a great deal for weekend travelers from Metrolink. You buy a pass for Saturday or Sunday for just $10 to travel anywhere Metrolink goes. It makes visiting Oceanside even easier with the terminus there and access to the Coaster and Amtrak lines throughout San Diego County (a separate ticket.)

Here’s some of the views going into Oceanside along the coast.

Whether it’s a short vacation or a swim stop between destinations, there’s lots to do and explore on a California beach adventure in Oceanside.

Extend your California beach adventure and travel anywhere on the Metrolink system for just $10 on Saturday or Sunday with the Weekend Day Pass. More info:http://www.metrolinktrains.com/news/p…

I hope that you enjoyed this brief California beach adventure and will share these pins.

Oceanside heart balloon is part of a California beach adventure Our lady of the sea chapel in OceansideOceanside murals are part of your California beach adventure

Budget Travelers Sandbox

 

Travel photo roulette #120 – The winner is…

Travel photo roulette collage example and featured picture

The Travel Roulette #120 Winner – Rachel Heller

Congratulations, Rachel for this shot that captures the mind-bending cultural contrast of a traditional kimono on a young woman capturing her travels on her cell phone.

Rachel is the founder of Rachel’s Ruminations

Japan cell phone kimono

Runners Up:

Carole from Travels with Carole. Getting Lei’d in Fiji, taken in Lawai Village, Fiji

Travel Roulete Berkeley and Beyond contest entry

Vicki at Make time to see the world sent in this: Temple Meets Technology from Vientiane, Laos

Vicki make time to see the world

Thank you to everyone who participated and make sure that you send in your pictures by the deadline for next month’s contest.

Winner Travel Roulette #119 – Elaine J. Masters

Jelly fish, Looe Key best pictures of 2015

One bright day the message came in, “You won!!”

I’d entered a picture into the Travel Photo Roulette contest and there it was. My blog’s picture on the theme of BLUE had been chosen. Wonderful! Who doesn’t love to win a contest?

Now, as winner, it falls to me to pick the next contest theme and host the contest. I hope you’ll scrub through your travel pictures and find one that is your perfect reflection of this month’s theme:

Travel Photo Roulette #120: Cultural Contrast

travel photo roulette examples in a collage

A few examples (none prize worthy) to spike your imagination

HOW TO ENTER TRAVEL PHOTO ROULETTE #120

To enter the Travel Photo competition simply leave a comment below with a (publicly accessible) link to your image (whether Flickr, Picasa, Smugmug, etc. or your own site) along with a brief description or caption for the photo. You must have a travel/photography blog to enter. Be sure to send the blog link as well as the picture link. Send the country and place. Descriptions aren’t necessary. The explanation should be in the shot.

The TPR #120 contest runs from today, Friday, January 15th – until midnight PST on Monday, January 25th.

Check back here throughout the submission period to see all the entries as they come in, and feel free to comment on them.

When the submission period ends. I’ll then have the (no doubt super tough) task of choosing my favorite, and will announce the lucky winner of TPR #120 here.

TRAVEL PHOTO ROULETTE CONTEST OVERVIEW

The contest rotates through travel/photography blogs, so the winner of the previous round of Travel Photo Roulette hosts the subsequent round on their own blog. The new host then chooses the next theme (a generic keyword or phrase) and bloggers submit their interpretations of the theme over the course of the contest.

At the end of the submission period, the hosting blogger chooses their favorite photo from the submissions, displays it as that round’s winning entry, and then passes the TPR baton on to the winner for the next round. Readers can attempt to sway the host blogger into picking a certain photo via comments, but the host ultimately freely chooses their favorite. The game is repeated with the winner hosting the following month’s game and choosing a theme for new photo submissions.

Feel free to share this post on Facebook, Twitter, and other social media so more people can join the contest. And do be sure to use the hashtag #PhotoRoulette

TRAVEL PHOTO ROULETTE CONTEST GUIDELINES
  • One submission per blog, so sites that have 2+ authors only get one entry.
  • Post processing is permitted, but photo altering is not (e.g., using Photoshop to remove elements.)
  • An abstract submission is welcome as long as it fits within the interpretation of the chosen theme. Remember, the hosting blogger chooses the winner, so if they can’t understand the submission, you might not win!
  • Please try and keep your images medium-sized and web-optimized.
  • If you win, keep these in mind when choosing a new theme: Keep phrases general so that all bloggers can participate. Specific items like “Eiffel Tower” should be avoided but rather made open-ended like “monuments.” For variety, it’s okay to say focused things such as “monuments at night” which most of us have pictures of. Phrases can be generic (e.g. “signs”), or abstract (e.g. “religion”).
  • Use something that is able to be interpreted by all.
  • After 1 year, phrases can be reused, however new photos must be submitted.
  • No obscene pictures or phrases allowed. Suggestive phrases and photography can be accepted, but please keep it within reason.
  • Keep the ideas and photos fresh!
  • Pictures from your entire portfolio are fair to submit. You do not have to take the photo within the duration of the contest period to submit it.
  • Most importantly, all photographs must be your own.
  • One last rule, since this is a competition for travel and photography bloggers, you must have a travel/photography blog to enter. Sorry!

I’m such a sucker for great pictures and so look forward to seeing your entries. You can see more of mine on my Instagram feed @tripwellgal. I’m obsessed with Insta!

Oh and… share, Share, SHARE this post using #PhotoRoulette

See all previous winners at the end of this post.

 

travel photo roulette showing cultural contrast in japan

I hope you enjoyed this and will take the challenge. Share with your friends, #PhotoRoulette and pin this!

Travel photo cultural contrasts in a Japanese templeCheck out these other fine blog linkups: Photo Friday

 

 

Previous Travel Photo Roulette Winners:

  1. Nov 2010 Living the Dream: Animals
  2. Nov 2010 Skinny Backpacker: Road Signs
  3. Nov 2010 Dream a Little Dream: Street Art
  4. Dec 2010 Flashpacker HQ: Festival
  5. Dec 2010 Over Yonderlust: Landmarks
  6. Dec 2010 Don’t Ever Look Back: Beaches
  7. Jan 2011 ThePlanetD: Portraits
  8. Jan 2011 Travel with a Mate: Motion
  9. Jan 2011 Johnny Vagabond Water
  10. Feb 2011 Ken Kaminesky: Urban
  11. Feb 2011 Travels of Adam: Friday Night
  12. Mar 2011 Itchy Feet Chronicles: The Journey
  13. Mar 2011 Brendan’s Adventures Changing Seasons
  14. Apr 2011 Shutterfeet: Storytelling
  15. Apr 2011 10 Times One: Piousness
  16. Apr 2011 Beached Eskimo: Learning
  17. May 2011 Travel Junkies: Architecture
  18. Jun 2011 Destination World: Transportation
  19. Jun 2011 Living the Dream: Paradise
  20. Jun 2011 Vagabond Quest: Clothes
  21. Jul 2011 The Unframed World: Symmetry
  22. Jul 2011 Beached Eskimo: Home
  23. Jul 2011 BackPackerBanter: Inspiration
  24. Aug 2011 WanderingTrader: Darkness
  25. Aug 2011 Finding the Universe: Tranquillity
  26. Sep 2011 Fearful Adventurer: Food
  27. Sep 2011 Adventures of a GoodMan: City
  28. Oct 2011 Globe-Trekking.com: Reflection
  29. Oct 2011 Scene With A Hart: Framing
  30. Nov 2011 Vagabond Quest: Silhouettes
  31. Nov 2011 Hecktic Travels: Music
  32. Dec 2011 Globetrotter Girls: Love
  33. Dec 2011 Man on the lam: Humor
  34. Jan 2012 My Walkabout: Winter
  35. Jan 2012 The Art of Slow Travel: Blue
  36. Feb 2012 Ten times One: Depth of the Field
  37. ?
  38. Mar 2012 Nomadbiba: Sunshine
  39. Mar 2012 Travel With Kat: Local Character
  40. Apr 2012 The Travel Bunny: Street Scene
  41. Apr 2012 Adventure Crow Spirit of the Country
  42. May 2012 Food Travel Bliss: Evening
  43. May 2012 Matt Gibson Adventure
  44. May 2012 Flashpacker HQ: Once In A Lifetime
  45. Jul 2012 Skinny Backpacker: Surreal
  46. Aug 2012 2away: Smile
  47. Aug 2012 Bridges and Balloons: Excellent Splendour of the Universe
  48. Sep 2012 The GypsyNester: What the ?!
  49. Oct 2012 Runaway Juno: Sweet
  50. Nov 2012 GQ Trippin: Play
  51. Nov 2012 Life’s Little Victories: Friendship
  52. Dec 2012 Breakaway Backpacker: Face
  53. Jan 2013 Fly, Icarus, Fly: Serendipity
  54. Feb 2013 Travel Transmissions: Lost in Thought
  55. Feb 2013 Wanderlusters: The Natural World
  56. Mar 2013 Travel Junkies: Patterns
  57. Apr 2013 Living the Dream: Your First Time
  58. May 2013 Getting Stamped: The Sun Goes Down
  59. Jun 2013 The GypsyNester: Cheesy Tourist Diversions
  60. Jun 2013 Boomeresque: Revolution
  61. Jul 2013 Breakaway Backpacker: Colorful
  62. Aug 2013 Around This World: Mountains
  63. Aug 2013 Passports and Pamplemousse Hands at Work
  64. Sep 2013 TurtlesTravel Dance
  65. Sep 2013 Keep calm and travel The Sea
  66. Sep 2013 Travel Photo Discovery: The Market
  67. Oct 2013 Am I Nearly There Yet?: Travel Fails
  68. Oct 2013 The GypsyNester: Weird Regional Foods
  69. Nov 2013 Sophie’s World: Trees
  70. Nov 2013 SHOuTography: Party
  71. Dec 2013 Adventures of a Goodman: Ruin
  72. Dec 2013 Have Blog Will Travel: Light
  73. Jan 2014 This World Rocks: Crowds
  74. Jan 2014 Travel Past 50: Competition
  75. Feb 2014 The Working Traveller: Working
  76. Mar 2014 Travels with Carole: Umbrellas
  77. Apr 2014 Independent Travel Help Quirky
  78. Apr 2014 Quit Job Travel World Statues
  79. May 2014 Nomad is Beautiful People Sleeping
  80. May 2014 Backpack Me: Mouthwatering
  81. Jun 2014 20 Years Hence: The Face of A Nation
  82. Jul 2014 Two for the Road: Into the Wild
  83. Jul 2014 TurtlesTravel: Summer!
  84. Aug 2014 Adventures Around Asia: Candid
  85. Aug 2014 Travel with Kevin and Ruth: Hiking
  86. Sept 2014 Till The Money Runs Out: Transport
  87. Sept 2014 The Crowded Planet: Wild World
  88. Sept 2014 ZigZag On Earth: The 4 Elements
  89. Oct 2014 Travel Addicts: Heritage
  90. Oct 2014 Living the Dream: Your Grand Adventure
  91. Oct 2014 Getting Stamped: Inspire
  92. Nov 2014 Flashpacker HQ: Viewpoint
  93. Jan 2015 Adventures of a GoodMan: WOW!
  94. Jan 2015 ZigZag On Earth: Roads and Tracks
  95. Feb 2015 Where’s The Gos?: Street Art
  96. Mar 2015 Ice Cream and Perma Frost: Frozen
  97. Mar 2015 Journey Jottings: Detail
  98. April 2015 House Sitting Travel: What’s your Angle?
  99. April 2015 JetWayz: Spiritual Beauty
  100. April 2015 The Trading Travelers: Celebrate
  101. May 2015 Street Food World Tour: Epic
  102. May 2015 Next Stop Who Knows: Landscape
  103. May 2015 We Travel Together: Wildlife
  104. May 2015 Vagabond Way: Festival
  105. June 2015 Travel Addicts: Landmarks
  106. June 2015 TravelnLass: Wrinkles
  107. July 2015 Anita’s Feast: Food Markets
  108. July 2015 Dare2Go: Dry
  109. August 2015 Travel Past 50: Home
  110. August 2015 Barefoot Nomad: Door
  111. September 2015 House Sitting Travel: Shapes
  112. September 2015 Berkeley and Beyond: Cemeteries
  113. October 2015 Dare2Go: Reflections
  114. October 2015 Journey Jottings: Thirst Quenching
  115. November 2015 Not A Ballerina: Home Away From Home
  116. November 2015 Nibble, Sip, Wander: Holiday
  117. December 2015 Travel with Kat: Light
  118. December 2015 Let Me Be Free: Traditions
  119. December 2015 TravelnLass: Blue
  120. January 2016 Trip Wellness: Cultural Contrast

 

Elvis left but the stars remain when you visit Palm Springs

Elvis' left this honeymoon house in Palm Springs.
Elvis left but his honeymoon residence remains in Palm Springs.

Elvis Honeymoon house

In Palm Springs chances are you’ve walked on his star, strolled past the cafes and the Tiki lounge where the King hung out with his entourage. Even though Hollywood’s golden age celebrities and Elvis left long ago their memories live on in the playground oasis of Palm Springs. The city has preserved a walkway of the stars, home and historical tours abound and each year a handful of events commemorate the areas glittery past.

I hooked up with Best of the Best Tours for a leisurely ride around neighborhoods where the elite still meet. No towering, crowded bus, we cruised in a luxury van that was unobtrusive on the private streets. Even after visiting Palm Springs at least a dozen times, there were vast areas I hadn’t seen before. Our guide, Cynthia excitedly shared stories about how the other half lived and a bit about the city’s history.

Elvis left but Cynthia remains with Best of the Best Tours in Palm Springs

Centuries ago, ancestors of the Agua Caliente Cahuilla (pronounced Kaw-we-ah)Indians settled in the Palm Springs area. In 1927 Prescott Thresher Stevens imagined a village playground taking advantage of the hot springs, mountain vistas and proximity to Los Angeles. Today his hotel site, the Mirador, has been rebuilt as a hospital using the original blueprints.

Mirador hotel that Elvis left long ago.

The original Mirador Hotel transformed into a hospital.

Once flash floods swept down the steep mountainsides just west of town. What was tragedy for early Indian families affected new housing developments as well. The U.S. Army Corps of Engineers created a deep trench and used the terrain’s boulders as a buttress. They’re stacked just a few hundred feet from Elvis Presley’s Graceland West.

Elvis left this home after recording eight songs in Palm Springs.

Elvis lived and recorded here in the 1970’s

A row of rose bushes, a flower that Elvis’ mother loved, still thrive along the gated yard. Sadly other artifacts haven’t fared as well but if you look closely at the illuminated house number you’ll see a profile. A much larger one once hung on the chimney facing the street.

Elvis' left this honeymoon house in Palm Springs.

Earlier Elvis brought his new bride to Palm Springs and moved into a Mid-Century modern home on a Las Palmas’ neighborhood cul de sac. The house is a series of concentric circles and visitors can see more details of the property on tours and at one of many events held there yearly. Look below for more information.

Don’t despair because Elvis left the building* long ago. In Palm Springs you can still walk in his footsteps. I’m glad it was so easy with Best of the Best Tours.

*’Elvis has left the building” was an end-of-concert announcement to discourage audiences pleading for encore after encore.

Elvis left but experience his life here:

Elvis Presley on the Walk of the Stars: 100 South Palm Canyon Drive.

The Honeymoon Hideaway: Interior tours are available several times a day and there are several events held on the grounds each season. Address: 1350 Ladera Circle, Vista Las Palmas neighborhood.

Graceland West: The home where Elvis recorded eight of his hits. Graceland West in the Little Tuscany neighborhood: 845 West Chino Canyon.

Caliente Tropics Lounge: Renovated in 2012, the Tiki lounge was a match for Elvis who had filmed three Hawaiian movies by the time he and Rat Pack celebs made this a favorite stop. Caliente Tropics: 411 E. Palm Canyon Drive.

Elvis memorabilia: The Hard Rock Hotel displays several Elvis items from their vaults at 150 South Indian Canyon Drive, downtown.

Elvis Eats: Two places where the King would settle into a booth and order his favorite meals.

  • The Original Las Casuelas: 368 North Palm Canyon Drive, downtown. Website for hours.
  • Sherman’s Deli and Bakery: 401 Tahquitz Way, downtown. A famous desert deli that serves the King’s favorite sandwich – hot pastrami.

Riviera Palm Springs: Before Elvis purchased a home in the desert he’d often stay at the Riviera Hotel at 1600 N. Indian Canyon Drive.

Best of Best Tours: Take a ride on the Hollywood side, a guided hike, or visit the wind farm with Best of Best Tours.

Walk in the Stars Itinerary: Several options for self-guided and hosted walking tours from Visit Palm Springs.

Elvis Events: Visit the Elvis Honeymoon site for tickets

  • January 4th, Elvis’ Birthday Tribute
  • Weekend with the King: First weekend in May
  • Annual tribute to the King: August 22nd
  • Elvis Halloween Contest
  • Rock-a-Holly Christmas: Various dates in December.

Thank you to Visit Palm Springs and Best of Best Tours for enlightening me about the the celebrity past and hosting my tour.

Enjoy this post? Tell your friends about finding Elvis in Palm Springs and PIN THIS!

Elvis left but the honeymoon house remains in Palm Springs

Packing my Suitcase

Best pictures of the year – A brief travel memoir

Grand Tetons best pictures by Dave Rudie

Grand Teton lake from the best pictures“Travel is the only thing you buy that makes you richer.”

It’s an impossible task to catalog a year of travel by choosing ten of the ‘best pictures.’ So these are drawn from several favorite destinations in the Americas that I was blessed to visit during the past twelve months. I hope you enjoy them!

A personal, ten best pictures from 2015
San Carlos Raptor hunting from cactus, top ten pictures

San Carlos Raptor hunting.

San Carlos, Mexico

My travel buddy, Dave, needed to check on a fish farm in Magdalena Bay and I tagged along to help with driving. From La Paz, we drove through Federales checkpoints on the narrow road to the coast. Just before rolling into the village of San Carlos, we spied noble raptors nesting on poles and hunting from cactus trees.

Stone Arch Bridge, Minneapolis

Minneapolis

It was a last minute trip but I jumped at a chance to visit Minneapolis with my 90 year old Aunt Fawnee for a family reunion. Over a few short days I toured the Twin Cities with a dear friend and fell in love with the riverfront. This view across the river was taken from the Mill City Museum. More about the adventure.

Abalone harvest in the years best picturesFort Bragg, California

Dave and his son, Jeff, spent a morning free diving for Abalone off the rocky coast near Fort Bragg. Braving the frigid water, they soon pried their limit from the rocks. Diving, pounding and prepping the meat is a lot of work but what a feast we had! Read the whole story here.

Grand Teton National Park, top pictures

Grand Tetons National Park, photo: Dave Rudie

Grand Tetons National Park

Getting the kid’s car to their new home in Philadelphia took us through 8 National Parks this summer. Dave’s picture gives a glimpse of the macro and micro beauty of Grand Tetons Park. It’s hard to pick a favorite National Park, but I’d return here in a heartbeat.

hunter in grand tetons national park

The Hunter

During a lakeside hike I heard a squirrel squealing. Turned out that he was dodging this creature in a life and death chase. Luckily, the pursuit stopped long enough for this shot before the predator loped away. I captured this in Glacier National Park.

Catalina Island

Catalina Harbor from Banning House, best pictures

Watching the light shift from this vantage point at Two Harbors’ Banning House never gets old. For his birthday, Dave wanted to return to the spot where his company was born. This is Catalina Harbor. Agar Canyon, where he would dry his seaweed harvests, is in the middle on the right.

New Orleans

Red in Horn's New OrleansThis year I my sister and I finally visited New Orleans. We exhausted ourselves over four days of walking through the different districts. I spied this gentleman in Horn’s Cafe off Frenchman Street. In a soft drawl he said, “They call me Red, because my beard used to be so.” Read more about our discoveries in New Orleans.

Fort Lauderdale

sunrise Fort Lauderdale
Nothing could have prepared me for the sunrises in Fort Lauderdale. On my first morning of a travel blogger’s conference, I woke, jet lagged and still on West Coast time. Checking my phone, I noticed a glow on the wall and turned to see this unfolding. Every day was a revelation. More of the story.

Jelly fish, Looe Key best pictures of 2015

Looe Key Reef, the Florida Keys

We wrangled two dives in the Florida Keys before the winds kicked up and a small craft warning kept us landlocked. Off Ramrod Key we dodged jelly fish floating near the surface. I was so glad to be diving instead of snorkeling! A Goliath Grouper was hanging out under the boat on our last return.  Picture: Dave Rudie.

corner at wynwood neighborhood, best pictures
Wynwood Walls, Miami

This is just one corner in the Wynwood District of Miami. An international group of mural artists have transformed the industrial neighborhood. It was the last trip before we escaped the steamy heat to happily spend the holiday season at home in San Diego.

Elaine and Dave in Yellowstone, best picturesIt’s an honor to be able to travel often for work and to tag along with my travel buddy and the love of my life, Dave Rudie. I hope you enjoyed this collection of my best pictures from the past year and hope that you too have many travels and discoveries throughout this beautiful planet we call home.

Grand Tetons from the best picturesIf you love great travel blogs join me in exploring this linkup.

 

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